Full Kicker speaker upgrade installed however Subwoofer had to be disconnected! - Club Crosstrek | Subaru XV Crosstrek Forums
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Old 08-08-2013, 04:23 AM   #1
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Default Full Kicker speaker upgrade installed however Subwoofer had to be disconnected!

Hi,

I have tried to to get responses on several other threads to no avail so I'll post a full thread with my questions. Note I cant post links yet... please remove the spaces in external URLs below.

1) I was able to get the full speaker kit at great price so I took the plunge. The install was very easy except the subwoofer harness cable piece. That took a good hour to get it routed properly. Now the rear drivers side door trim wont fit perfectly anymore... Does anyone know how to take the back seat bottom cushion out?

Obviously, I tested after installing each set of 2 (tweeters, fronts, rears, and then the sub. At each test, the sound was ssssoooo much better right up until I plugged in the sub, reinstalled the negative battery cable and turned the car on. OMG! What the heck were you thinking Subaru? As many others have mentioned before me, the sub is at least 2 times as loud (probably 3 or 4 x) as the rest of the speakers. There appears to NO way to control the sub through the HU, correct? It is horrible and unusable so I have to try to add a volume control.

One member, muzikluvir, installed a volume control from Monoprice:
Original thread - http://clubcrosstrek.com/index.php/t...9.html#msg9689

Volume Control
h t t p://w w w .monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=109&cp_id=10903&cs_id=1090301&p_i d=8243&seq=1&format=2
"This is a rotary-type wall plate volume control for speaker systems with power ratings of up to 100 watts per channel and impedance ratings of 4 to 16 ohms. This rotary control can be set to one of twelve positions, including the minimum (off) and maximum volume settings.

The wall plate mounts into a standard single-gang, low-voltage wall bracket (not included) and has inputs and outputs for one pair of stereo speaker wires (4 input connections and 4 output connections). It can accept speaker wire in sizes from 14 to 16 gauge and provides a frequency response range of 35 Hz to 20 kHz (+0/-2db) at the full power rating of 100 watts per channel. "

Does the frequency response statement above mean the it has crossover circuitry too? Would this matter adding it to the sub?

Would this one from Parts Express be better?

h t t p://w w w .parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?partnumber=260-262
"
Speaker L-Pad Attenuator 100W Mono 3/8" Shaft 8 Ohm

L-pads adjust the relative volume of driver(s)/speaker(s) connected to them by placing added resistance in series. At the same time, a counter-resistance is placed in parallel with the driver(s)/speaker(s) to maintain a constant impedance which allows the original crossover design to be used. L-pads are to be placed in between the amplifier and driver(s)/speaker, or in between the crossover and driver(s)/speaker(s). This particular L-pad is rated at 100 watts RMS, is designed to be used with 8 ohm loads, features a 3/8" shaft length, and comes with mounting hardware, faceplate, and volume control knob."

Hopefully, someone can explain HOW to connect either of these controls to the sub? I assume you just unscrew the speaker from the cabinet. But then where do the wires go, which colors go where, and to where on the controls from Monoprice or PE?


2) I have a 2013 Limited with Nav. Obviously, I do not have any of the physical buttons on my HU so I can't even attempt the instructions to turn off loudness and turn on 'through mode.' Does anyone know how to do this?


Thanks for any and ALL comments, suggestions, etc!

Chris

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Old 08-13-2013, 02:57 AM   #2
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Default Re: Full Kicker speaker upgrade installed however Subwoofer had to be disconnected!

Hello again,


Fortunately, we have a couple of options now! Based on this thread (http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show....php?t=2502302) by slide here, I called SOA and spoke with a customer service agent and asked for the 'adapter' as well. Kelly Shinalut was unavailable but when the agent asked her about it and she knew exactly what I was referring to. There is NO official OEM repair at this time. The adapter DOES exist however and they are supposedly sending me one this week. The agent had no idea WHAT the adapter was or if there were many steps involved to install it. She said that I could have it as long as I participated in a follow-up call after a couple of weeks with it installed. That was a no-brainer and I said YES! I'll report back here what the adapter IS and more importantly IF it works!


Also, I've been in contact with muzikluvir (http://clubcrosstrek.com/index.php/t...9.html#msg9689) who gave me detailed instructions on how he installed the volume control from Monoprice. He gave me permission to copy the contents of his email to these forums.


______________
First, remove the sub from its enclosure, find a nice flat spot on the top of the enclosure that is out of the way of the speaker, and drill the center hole for the volume shaft to go through (obviously with the knob pulled off). Push the shaft through from the outside and mark the holes for the mounting bolts using the attached bracket as a guide.

With a sealed enclosure like this, you don't want any air to get out, so use a Permatex adhesive gasket sealant (something like this - http://www.permatex.com/products/pro...sealant-detail) around the outer edges of the volume control's bracket before placing it in and bolting in place. Then add extra sealant around the bolts and to fill in the gap between the shaft and hole from the outside. Make sure to keep the sealant between the threaded part and the sides of the enclosure so you're not locking the shaft in place. May be overkill, but the adhesive should help it stay in place and not rattle around. You'll want to let the sealant dry for the time thats listed on its packaging before re-installing the sub. On the volume control sealing, my hole was a little larger than what actually stuck through, so I sealed around the base part that's threaded and the sides of the box. You don't want to go above the threading as it could impact your ability to turn the knob once it dries.



Also, here's a shot of the control inside the box. You'll notice I pulled off the white trim piece and the white plastic on the volume knob side so that the metal is right up against the box and can seal pretty well.




I then cut the wires going from the amp to the sub, crimped female quick connect terminals (like this, but I don't remember the size http://www.altex.com/Crimp-Quick-Connectors-C10597.aspx) on the now cut ends, and wired from the amp to the left input on the switch, then the left output of the switch to the sub. The default resistance that the switch comes set to (4 ohm) works fine for this use. The volume control is stereo, which isn't needed so the right side just goes unused. You may want to wrap the speaker wires in some foam tape if they're bare so they don't rattle against the sides when the sub is in use. The sub is installed, so I'll explain the wiring. The amp is on the outside of the enclosure on the bottom. The only wiring is the harness going to the HU with the quick release connector outside the enclosure, then one speaker cable inside the enclosure going to the sub. There's nothing else in the box.. the wire attached to the back of the speaker is the only thing in there and the one you'll want to run to the volume control.

The response curve is pretty flat, so it won't noticeably color the sound. It'll pass the signal through, just attenuated at whatever level you set. When reined in and not full volume, it's not as boomy and can be nice and punchy. I listen to a wide range of music and it's a good general sub for most all I've played through. It's not a high-end sub, but it's much nicer with the level control inline. I didn't add any fill to the enclosure.


Then I placed the sub back in, screwed down the screws every-other screw at a time and called that good.

While the sub was drying, I sprayed 3 or 4 coats of plastidip on the knob to get it to somewhat match the enclosure. Once dry and the sub reassembled, I pushed it on.




I have the limited with nav too. The loudness and through settings seem to just be on the base HU as the EQ is more limited. For the nav, you've got the 7 band EQ to work with, which does the job. I used an RTA to set my EQ (I have a pro audio background and have a bunch of gear from those days) and I'm happy with how it came out sounding. Your settings may be different based on the specific components you have and your personal preferences, but here's what I ended up with:

80 - 3 notches down from 0
160 - 0
400 - 3 notches up from 0
1k - 1 notch down from 0
2.5k - 3 notches down from 0
6.3k - 5 notches down from 0
12.5k - 3 notches down from 0

Sub knob 6-8 clicks up from 0 (all the way left), depending on the music. I usually leave it around 7 and call it good though.
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Obviously, I am going to hold off in making any modifications to the sub until I can test the 'adapter' that Subaru is sending. I will let you know if it works. Fingers crossed!

Thanks,

Chris
Attached Images
File Type: jpg Control.jpg (44.8 KB, 372 views)
File Type: png knob.png (146.1 KB, 374 views)
File Type: jpg Shaft.jpg (20.3 KB, 372 views)
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Old 08-13-2013, 03:11 PM   #3
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Default Re: Full Kicker speaker upgrade installed however Subwoofer had to be disconnected!

Wow thanks so much Chris for the post. After reading it I called SOA and everyone at Customer Service knew exactly what I was talking about and that there is an adapter for the subwoofer. They are shipping me out one today and should be here within 10 days. My fingers are crossed in hopes this solves the problem with the sub. I was just getting ready to hack into the sub to try and figure out how to add a volume switch per previous posts. My guess is you'll be getting your adapter before me and hope that you post what comes in the mail and what if any help it gives.

Thanks again

DJ
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Old 08-18-2013, 02:51 AM   #4
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Default Re: Full Kicker speaker upgrade installed however Subwoofer had to be disconnected!

Hello again,

Unfortunately, I don't have good news. I received the harness adapter, excitedly installed it, turned the HU on but lo and behold just as slide had said, it did nothing. I have no idea what it was even supposed to do...?? Please see pics. Does anyone know?

I should receive the volume control from monoprice sometime next week. I'll take pictures of the process of installing it.

Chris


Letter from Subaru and the 'subwoofer adapter.'
http://clubcrosstrek.com/index.php?a...ach=3984;image
Side that connects to the HU harness
http://clubcrosstrek.com/index.php?a...ach=3982;image
Side that connects to the sub plug
http://clubcrosstrek.com/index.php?a...ach=3986;image
Connected to the sub
http://clubcrosstrek.com/index.php?a...ach=3980;image
Attached Images
File Type: jpg connected.jpg (160.0 KB, 26 views)
File Type: jpg harness connection.jpg (109.3 KB, 21 views)
File Type: jpg letter.jpg (195.3 KB, 26 views)
File Type: jpg sub connection.jpg (128.8 KB, 18 views)
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Old 08-18-2013, 04:14 AM   #5
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Default Re: Full Kicker speaker upgrade installed however Subwoofer had to be disconnected!

Bummer that it didn't work out (or hasn't yet). I wish I could help but I don't have the sub and don't know a thing about car audio. Hopefully you get it figured out.
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Old 08-27-2013, 06:28 PM   #6
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Default Re: Full Kicker speaker upgrade installed however Subwoofer had to be disconnected!

Well, I installed the subwoofer volume control and Oh Man! What a difference it’s made! I am amazed that the OEM subwoofer does not come with some sort of control already installed. It’s as if Kicker just threw a sub in the mix and didn’t even listen to the final product.

I took pictures of the process to help others in the future.

First, unscrew the four screws holding the sub in, remove the quick connectors from the terminals and remove the speaker from the enclosure.

On the monoprice volume control, remove the knob then gently pry the white faceplate off. Unscrew the nut and washer to remove the silver bracket.

The most logical place for a volume control is on the top left hand corner of the sub when installed in the vehicle. Use the bracket as a template to mark the center hole for the shaft of the control and the 2 small holes on both ends for the screws to attach the control to the sub. I used a small bit to mark the 3 holes and then used the same bit to drill pilot holes. I used a 3/8” bit and the shaft fits perfectly and I used 1/8“ bit for the bracket screws. Screw the nut and washer back on the control to hold the bracket in place.

Drill the three holes nice and straight.

Cont...
Attached Images
File Type: jpg 01 - unscrew subwoofer.JPG (1.45 MB, 22 views)
File Type: jpg 02 - remove speaker.JPG (1.19 MB, 18 views)
File Type: jpg 03 - whole unit.JPG (1.74 MB, 25 views)
File Type: jpg 05 - faceplate removed.JPG (1.89 MB, 18 views)
File Type: jpg 06 - unscrew nut and washer.JPG (1.37 MB, 13 views)
File Type: jpg 07 - disassembled.JPG (1.42 MB, 12 views)
File Type: jpg 08 - mark holes.JPG (1.35 MB, 16 views)
File Type: jpg 09 - Drill holes.JPG (1.36 MB, 18 views)
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Old 08-27-2013, 06:41 PM   #7
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Default Re: Full Kicker speaker upgrade installed however Subwoofer had to be disconnected!

Cont...

You will need another hand for the following steps.

Test fitment of the control on both the outside then inside of the sub.

Cut the grey(-) and black(+) speaker wire that’s in the sub as close to the current quick connect terminals as possible. This will give you plenty of wire from the AMP on the bottom to the right side of the volume control or “Input.” Trim about 1/4” of insulation from the wire. Now unscrew the small hold-down screws on the control. The control is actually stereo but you will only use the Left +/– on BOTH sides of the control. Note wire polarity. Make sure you use the Left hold down screws on BOTH sides. I had to remove the unit and re-install it because I accidentally used Left on Input BUT Right on Output. Obviously, when I turned it on there was no output. (In the pictures, the red and black speaker wire is attached to the RIGHT terminals of the output side not the LEFT terminals as it should be. Picture was taken before I noticed the problem.)

I purchased this speaker wire from Radio Shack to connect the output control to the subwoofer. Trim 1/4” of insulation from both ends of a 15” or so piece off the wire spool. Add 2 crimp able quick connect terminals to the speaker end of the new wire then screw the other end of the wire to the left side of the control or “Output.” Remember to note wire polarity…

Have your helper hold the control and then put Permatex gasket tack and seal all over the bracket and CLOSE to the threads without touching them. Insert the control in the sub and line up the screws holes and tighten it down. Note that I could NOT figure out how to use the nut and washer to attach the control because of the space limitation so it does NOT fit flush to the top of sub. The screws hold the unit in place and then the gasket tack and seal makes a nice airtight seal when dry. After installation, wait the amount of time needed for curing before re-installing the subwoofer.

Cont...
Attached Images
File Type: jpg 10 - Drill holes.JPG (1.42 MB, 12 views)
File Type: jpg 11 - Check fitment.JPG (1.52 MB, 15 views)
File Type: jpg 12 - Tighten nut and washer.JPG (1.09 MB, 12 views)
File Type: jpg 13 - strip insulation.JPG (1.45 MB, 12 views)
File Type: jpg 14 - Amp wire to INPUT side of control.JPG (1.47 MB, 24 views)
File Type: jpg 15 - new speaker wire to OUTPUT side.JPG (1.53 MB, 22 views)
File Type: jpg 16 - gasket tack and seal.JPG (1.50 MB, 20 views)
File Type: jpg 17 - screw control inside sub.JPG (503.2 KB, 22 views)
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Old 08-27-2013, 06:56 PM   #8
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Default Re: Full Kicker speaker upgrade installed however Subwoofer had to be disconnected!

Cont...

After curing, plug the quick connect terminals to the corresponding polarity plug on the subwoofer and then screw the speaker down. Note that I decided to add some PolyFill to the interior of my sub since I prefer a tighter, more punchy bass rather than boomy bass. I left a center hole in the fill for the speaker magnet but otherwise its packed nicely.

I also have rear seatback protectors. I decided to cut a small rectagular hole on the protector so I the sub bracket fit well. Now reinstall the sub enclosure in the vehicle and test it out!

I leave mine set to 6 out of 12 clicks on the control.

Now I am totally satisfied with the sound!

Thanks,

Chris
Attached Images
File Type: jpg 18 - control installed.JPG (550.0 KB, 20 views)
File Type: jpg 19 - quick connectors attached.JPG (1.49 MB, 19 views)
File Type: jpg 20 - Add polyfill.JPG (548.1 KB, 38 views)
File Type: jpg 22 - cut retangular hole in seat back protector.JPG (1.53 MB, 26 views)
File Type: jpg 23 - sub installed.jpg (116.4 KB, 68 views)
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Old 01-24-2014, 08:14 PM   #9
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Default Re: Full Kicker speaker upgrade installed however Subwoofer had to be disconnected!

Nice work, Avaholic! Thanks for filling in all the steps I was in too much of a hurry to document.

I've thought about adding some poly. How much of a difference did you notice on this enclosure?
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