Fortunately, we have a couple of options now! Based on this thread (http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show....php?t=2502302
) by slide here, I called SOA and spoke with a customer service agent and asked for the 'adapter' as well. Kelly Shinalut was unavailable but when the agent asked her about it and she knew exactly what I was referring to. There is NO official OEM repair at this time. The adapter DOES exist however and they are supposedly sending me one this week. The agent had no idea WHAT the adapter was or if there were many steps involved to install it. She said that I could have it as long as I participated in a follow-up call after a couple of weeks with it installed. That was a no-brainer and I said YES! I'll report back here what the adapter IS and more importantly IF it works!
Also, I've been in contact with muzikluvir (http://clubcrosstrek.com/index.php/t...9.html#msg9689
) who gave me detailed instructions on how he installed the volume control from Monoprice. He gave me permission to copy the contents of his email to these forums.
First, remove the sub from its enclosure, find a nice flat spot on the top of the enclosure that is out of the way of the speaker, and drill the center hole for the volume shaft to go through (obviously with the knob pulled off). Push the shaft through from the outside and mark the holes for the mounting bolts using the attached bracket as a guide.
With a sealed enclosure like this, you don't want any air to get out, so use a Permatex adhesive gasket sealant (something like this - http://www.permatex.com/products/pro...sealant-detail
) around the outer edges of the volume control's bracket before placing it in and bolting in place. Then add extra sealant around the bolts and to fill in the gap between the shaft and hole from the outside. Make sure to keep the sealant between the threaded part and the sides of the enclosure so you're not locking the shaft in place. May be overkill, but the adhesive should help it stay in place and not rattle around. You'll want to let the sealant dry for the time thats listed on its packaging before re-installing the sub. On the volume control sealing, my hole was a little larger than what actually stuck through, so I sealed around the base part that's threaded and the sides of the box. You don't want to go above the threading as it could impact your ability to turn the knob once it dries.
Also, here's a shot of the control inside the box. You'll notice I pulled off the white trim piece and the white plastic on the volume knob side so that the metal is right up against the box and can seal pretty well.
I then cut the wires going from the amp to the sub, crimped female quick connect terminals (like this, but I don't remember the size http://www.altex.com/Crimp-Quick-Connectors-C10597.aspx
) on the now cut ends, and wired from the amp to the left input on the switch, then the left output of the switch to the sub. The default resistance that the switch comes set to (4 ohm) works fine for this use. The volume control is stereo, which isn't needed so the right side just goes unused. You may want to wrap the speaker wires in some foam tape if they're bare so they don't rattle against the sides when the sub is in use. The sub is installed, so I'll explain the wiring. The amp is on the outside of the enclosure on the bottom. The only wiring is the harness going to the HU with the quick release connector outside the enclosure, then one speaker cable inside the enclosure going to the sub. There's nothing else in the box.. the wire attached to the back of the speaker is the only thing in there and the one you'll want to run to the volume control.
The response curve is pretty flat, so it won't noticeably color the sound. It'll pass the signal through, just attenuated at whatever level you set. When reined in and not full volume, it's not as boomy and can be nice and punchy. I listen to a wide range of music and it's a good general sub for most all I've played through. It's not a high-end sub, but it's much nicer with the level control inline. I didn't add any fill to the enclosure.
Then I placed the sub back in, screwed down the screws every-other screw at a time and called that good.
While the sub was drying, I sprayed 3 or 4 coats of plastidip on the knob to get it to somewhat match the enclosure. Once dry and the sub reassembled, I pushed it on.
I have the limited with nav too. The loudness and through settings seem to just be on the base HU as the EQ is more limited. For the nav, you've got the 7 band EQ to work with, which does the job. I used an RTA to set my EQ (I have a pro audio background and have a bunch of gear from those days) and I'm happy with how it came out sounding. Your settings may be different based on the specific components you have and your personal preferences, but here's what I ended up with:
80 - 3 notches down from 0
160 - 0
400 - 3 notches up from 0
1k - 1 notch down from 0
2.5k - 3 notches down from 0
6.3k - 5 notches down from 0
12.5k - 3 notches down from 0
Sub knob 6-8 clicks up from 0 (all the way left), depending on the music. I usually leave it around 7 and call it good though.
Obviously, I am going to hold off in making any modifications to the sub until I can test the 'adapter' that Subaru is sending. I will let you know if it works. Fingers crossed!