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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
My dealer’s tech couldn’t get the front driver side bearing off today, so it’s spending the night in the shop. They said it was very rusty.

They also told me it needs new brakes, after already being replaced once under warranty.
The car only has 50,000 miles. Should this set of brakes be covered? If I choose to replace them myself (pads and rotors), anything special I need to know or do?

thanks!
sam
 

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My guess would be that the "tech" massacred the rotors in the process...hence "you need new brakes". Depending on how many miles you put on the "warranty" set, I would say yes. It should be under warranty. My dealer tech tried to play this game with me when I was in for the latest recall on the re-torque of the rear anti-sway bar. It was over a battery cable-noted in the report "aftermarket battery installed-junction bent-incomplete connection". Which it was bent but just a degree or two, and it was not a "incomplete connection" either. They wanted to install a Subaru OEM battery and new battery cable (500+ bucks) and he did not do the "torque check" on the noted bolts on the recall...pencil whipped it. That is another story though. Stand on the Service Managers shoulders-make them show you- <shaking my head> I've busted out the most gnarly/mud encrusted/rusted mass of Super Duty/Farm vehicle bearings in a afternoon..."Techs"...I put them just a 1/2 notch better than Jiffy Lube "Techs".
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
My guess would be that the "tech" massacred the rotors in the process...hence "you need new brakes". Depending on how many miles you put on the "warranty" set, I would say yes. It should be under warranty. My dealer tech tried to play this game with me when I was in for the latest recall on the re-torque of the rear anti-sway bar. It was over a battery cable-noted in the report "aftermarket battery installed-junction bent-incomplete connection". Which it was bent but just a degree or two, and it was not a "incomplete connection" either. They wanted to install a Subaru OEM battery and new battery cable (500+ bucks) and he did not do the "torque check" on the noted bolts on the recall...pencil whipped it. That is another story though. Stand on the Service Managers shoulders-make them show you- <shaking my head> I've busted out the most gnarly/mud encrusted/rusted mass of Super Duty/Farm vehicle bearings in a afternoon..."Techs"...I put them just a 1/2 notch better than Jiffy Lube "Techs".
The first set of pads was replaced just before 36k miles, and now at 50k ( just reached a couple days ago), they’re telling me the pads are still good, but to replace the rotors. Screw that, they should have replaced the rotors at the first brake job. I’ll do it myself…
Thanks,
Sam
 

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The first set of pads was replaced just before 36k miles, and now at 50k ( just reached a couple days ago), they’re telling me the pads are still good, but to replace the rotors. Screw that, they should have replaced the rotors at the first brake job. I’ll do it myself…
Thanks,
Sam
Again, make them show you...

Disc rotor run-out limit: 0.05 mm (0.0020 in)
Disc rotor thickness limit: 22 mm (0.87 in)

Run-out should be checked with new bearings (since it is being replaced)...unless they are basing replacement against old bearing run-out...then I would want to see those numbers too!

Yes, I do not trust anyone anymore...been burned by "dealer recommendations/requirements" too many times.

If you want new rotors I recommend Frozen Rotors (frozenrotors.com). They are a bit pricey, but they are solid...I have been running them for 4 years now (slotted), and over 7 on my F-250...
 
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