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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I was driving home tonight from school and I noticed the check engine and VDC warning light are constantly on. And the cruise control symbol is blinking too. Has anyone experienced this? I had my 1000 mile oil change about two weeks ago, maybe they didn't reset something that they should've?
I looked at the manual and according to it the VDC has got something to do with the ABS and the Check Engine light has got something to do with the Emission System but i can't find anything about the blinking cruise control symbol.
 

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That is worrisome, I haven't experienced anything like that. Unless someone on here has a quick-fix and is absolutely sure of what the problem is, I would get it into Subaru immediately and take advantage of your warranty.

Please report back once you learn what it is.
 

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If you had a scan tool and got me the code I can tell you exactly whats wrong. Now I can tell you the reason why your cruise is blinking any time your Mil light comes on(thats your check engine light) or anything to do with the VDC your subaru will disable your cruise control. Now the most common problem is that your fuel cap isnt sealing your fuel tank always check that first anytime you have it come on. And FYI Your XVs first oil change should have been at 5000 miles. I hope this helps. And now that I think about it your MIL light might disable your VDC like it does with cruise control just a thought. These are my experiences with my impreza
 

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Re: авиабилеты м

IhAnnedayb said:
В этом что-то есть. Спасибо за помощь в этом вопросе. Я не знал этого.
Say WHAT?
 

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I had this same exact problem on a 2006 Toyota Rav4 (which also happens to use Denso parts, and Toyota just happens to own 16% of Fuji Heavy Industries, etc....) and it turned out to be a bad wheel speed sensor.

Edit: I'm not sure my check engine was on, that was 3 years ago. Sharing my similar experience none-the-less.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
ClubCrosstrek said:
That is worrisome, I haven't experienced anything like that. Unless someone on here has a quick-fix and is absolutely sure of what the problem is, I would get it into Subaru immediately and take advantage of your warranty.

Please report back once you learn what it is.
I dropped it off the dealership first thing this morning, the service guy said they'll scan it and see what caused it. He said that when the Check Engine light came on it disabled the VDC and the cruise control that's why they were off too. He said I should get the car back today and when I find out what caused it I'll definitely report back.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
suuichi said:
Hah so I was right!!!!! Btw did you check your fuel cap before you gave it to the dealer
I was just replying to your post then a warning popped up just before I posted. Yes you are right and the fuel cap was the first thing I checked last night and it was closed properly.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
So..the dealership just called me and they said that the code was "Camshaft Position Too Slow." I tried to get the code number but the service guy said he'll write it on my invoice and I'll put it up here so if anyone gets it then they'll know too.

The problem was that I didn't wait long enough for the coolant to get warm enough before I drove off. Of course I wait for the blue indicator light to turn off before I drive but I guess I'll wait a little more after it turns off just to make sure.
 

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tangyxv said:
So..the dealership just called me and they said that the code was "Camshaft Position Too Slow." I tried to get the code number but the service guy said he'll write it on my invoice and I'll put it up here so if anyone gets it then they'll know too.

The problem was that I didn't wait long enough for the coolant to get warm enough before I drove off. Of course I wait for the blue indicator light to turn off before I drive but I guess I'll wait a little more after it turns off just to make sure.
Is that what they told you? That you didn't wait long enough for coolant to warm up? I call BS on that one. I NEVER wait until blue coolant turns off....at most I wait 30 seconds and then drive slowly thru my neighborhood to allow car to warm. A modern car should not require a significant waiting period before driving. I would pay very close attention to how your motor performs over the next several thousand miles and have everything documented when/if you should have to go to dealer. I'm not saying you are going to have a problem but if you do, and the camshaft is a very important part, at least your warranty will cover it. I think Suuichi may be headed in the right direction with his diagnosis. But just to be safe-DOCUMENT EVERYTHING!
 

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Did not wait to warm up the car! What a crock! Is this the same guy who said you needed to change the oil at 1,000 miles? If so, time to get another dealer to service you car. I would also report them to Subaru.
 

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I am saying BS on the explanation too. I am in snow country here, and so long as it's above freezing, I rarely let my car warm up long enough for the blue light to go away. It wastes gas. I'd rather be getting some reduced MPG from a non-warmed engine than no MPG sitting in the driveway.
 

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Ok so here's how things work. You have what's called a dry start which means when you start your car after its been sitting overnight all the oil collects at the bottom. So when you start it when it's been sitting you have a little wear for a few seconds.
This is normal and is engineered to help reduce wear to almost nothing. If you donkey stomp the gas pedal when the blue light is on a lot then you will start having problems. The cam shaft is line up with your engine timing with the crank shaft.
I call BS on it iv met a lot of mechanics that don't know wtf they talking about. Yeah let me know what the code is i might be able to let you know a better idea of what's going on but yeah make sure you keep an eye on your engine and sounds.
 

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I won't give my opinion one way or the other about the dealer's diagnosis since I don't know enough about engines, but I will say I never let the blue light go off before I drive. I might turn the key to 'ON' for a few seconds before I start it, but that's about it; once I am in the car I am ready to drive.
 

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RubySu said:
tangyxv said:
So..the dealership just called me and they said that the code was "Camshaft Position Too Slow." I tried to get the code number but the service guy said he'll write it on my invoice and I'll put it up here so if anyone gets it then they'll know too.

The problem was that I didn't wait long enough for the coolant to get warm enough before I drove off. Of course I wait for the blue indicator light to turn off before I drive but I guess I'll wait a little more after it turns off just to make sure.
Is that what they told you? That you didn't wait long enough for coolant to warm up? I call BS on that one. I NEVER wait until blue coolant turns off....at most I wait 30 seconds and then drive slowly thru my neighborhood to allow car to warm. A modern car should not require a significant waiting period before driving. I would pay very close attention to how your motor performs over the next several thousand miles and have everything documented when/if you should have to go to dealer. I'm not saying you are going to have a problem but if you do, and the camshaft is a very important part, at least your warranty will cover it. I think Suuichi may be headed in the right direction with his diagnosis. But just to be safe-DOCUMENT EVERYTHING!
Definitely doing it right. Modern cars only need 30 seconds to a minute of idling and you're good to drive.


As for not waiting to let it warm up... I'm having a hard time drawing a correlation between oil warm-up temperatures and camshaft timing... Perhaps the AVCS but that's the best I could think of...


hopefully just a bad sensor and not something horrible.
 

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haha wait for the blue light to turn off... for us northerners that could mean 20 minutes of idling during the winter! I give it about a minute after a COLD start and then set off, i keep the RPM's low until it does turn off though.
 

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AWDfreak said:
RubySu said:
tangyxv said:
So..the dealership just called me and they said that the code was "Camshaft Position Too Slow." I tried to get the code number but the service guy said he'll write it on my invoice and I'll put it up here so if anyone gets it then they'll know too.

The problem was that I didn't wait long enough for the coolant to get warm enough before I drove off. Of course I wait for the blue indicator light to turn off before I drive but I guess I'll wait a little more after it turns off just to make sure.
Is that what they told you? That you didn't wait long enough for coolant to warm up? I call BS on that one. I NEVER wait until blue coolant turns off....at most I wait 30 seconds and then drive slowly thru my neighborhood to allow car to warm. A modern car should not require a significant waiting period before driving. I would pay very close attention to how your motor performs over the next several thousand miles and have everything documented when/if you should have to go to dealer. I'm not saying you are going to have a problem but if you do, and the camshaft is a very important part, at least your warranty will cover it. I think Suuichi may be headed in the right direction with his diagnosis. But just to be safe-DOCUMENT EVERYTHING!
Definitely doing it right. Modern cars only need 30 seconds to a minute of idling and you're good to drive.


As for not waiting to let it warm up... I'm having a hard time drawing a correlation between oil warm-up temperatures and camshaft timing... Perhaps the AVCS but that's the best I could think of...


hopefully just a bad sensor and not something horrible.
It could ... if the oil was damn near frozen, not flowing, and unable to adjust the variable valve timing. You would think the car would need to have been sitting in Antarctica for a month and then jumped in and matted to the floor before that could happen though.

I am thinking they used the wrong weight, or no oil during his oil change.
 
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