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Discussion Starter #1
Hey everybody, so many of you have been asking wondering about if you should replace the stock speakers. The short answer is yes, stop reading and go order some speakers and tweeters and get to to work. Honestly when i pulled them out of the car all I could say was wtf is this. They seriously looked like walmart bargain bin speakers and I could not be happier that they have been replaced. So I didnt go with the Kicker Upgrade package for the single reason that I could not find any info that specifies what model they are and any sort of specs. I still went with Kickers though however, for both speakers and tweeters. The install was about 2 hours but it was worth every moment of it.

Upon turning them on there was an instant difference in the sound quality. I tested various types of music from Rock, Classical, Rap, Techno, Dub Step, Instrumental, etc and they all came in perfectly clear. I had to tweak the settings a little bit, but once I found that sweet spot it was perfect. Whether I have the volume at 5 or 30, open or closed windows the sound is crystal clear and driving is a lot more enjoyable. So if you have or are considering replacing them, it is really worth it, the cheapos that are in there right now take away from the overall experience of music.
Oh and if you're considering replacing the tweeters in the process, I recommend the Kicker Tweeters that are specific to Subaru since they come with the bracket already which makes for an easy install.

So if you want to know what Installed here are links directly to what I got.
Speakers (Kicker DSC65) - http://www.crutchfield.com/p_20641DS654/Kicker-DSC65.html?tp=95
Tweeters (Kicker upgrade Specific to Subaru) - http://www.subarugenuineparts.com/product_info.php?cPath=138_139&products_id=1937
Get these, youll need them. Its only $12 so dont be cheap - http://www.crutchfield.com/p_126CR3NGL/Bojo-Trim-Panel-Tools.html

Pics of the new compared to the old
Tweeters. Old on the Left, New on the Right


Speakers. Old on Top, New on Bottom
 

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I for one, if you go as far as installing door speakers that involve removing door panels. Suggest go a little farther in order to get even better sound. Install some gtmat on the back side skin doors and jute padding on the back side of the door panels. It'll give you a deeper richer sound, plus block out road noise.
 

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Geronomo- Thanks! My only complaint about my new XV was the sound quality? It would be ok if this was 1980 and the radio had a cassette player lol. I just ordered the exact same equipment based on your post. I Like to go with something that's proven. So for a couple hundred bucks I can enjoy my tunes. Can you tell me what gtmat and jute padding is?
 

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Discussion Starter #5
The said:
were they direct bolt in replacement?
was the time involved just removing panels or was there more to it?
The tweeters were direct bolt in replacement. The door speakers however required some drilling. Since the stock set up in designed on a 3 screw pattern and the replacements required 4 I had to make new holes to mount the speakers. Removing door panels is the easy part, there are 2 screws that hold the door in place, 1 in the handle the other just below it. Once those are out, you just pop the door off, and I highly recommend unscrewing the door controls from the door to make it easier to work without the door hanging in your way. Now keep in mind that the stock front speakers have their wiring on the outside, so youll have to reroute the wire into the door, which isnt hard there is a spot for it to go and come out of the speaker hole. All in all once you get into a groove its pretty simple, or you can pull off all of the door panels and just put them on as you install.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
billybob said:
I for one, if you go as far as installing door speakers that involve removing door panels. Suggest go a little farther in order to get even better sound. Install some gtmat on the back side skin doors and jute padding on the back side of the door panels. It'll give you a deeper richer sound, plus block out road noise.
I do agree that the little things you can do make for better sound, at the moment I didnt even consider that so I just went with the quick fix to the situation. Where would you get gtmat and jute padding? Is it similar to dynamat?
 

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If you GOOGLE, gtmatt is a sticky substance when applied to tinny medal surface, it'll give more mass. So instead a high tinny drum sound, you get more of a dull thug. Jute is padding has been use in the auto industry for years to absorb road noise. Go outside and tap on the crosstrek doors.
 

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Geronomo said:
The said:
were they direct bolt in replacement?
was the time involved just removing panels or was there more to it?
The tweeters were direct bolt in replacement. The door speakers however required some drilling. Since the stock set up in designed on a 3 screw pattern and the replacements required 4 I had to make new holes to mount the speakers. Removing door panels is the easy part, there are 2 screws that hold the door in place, 1 in the handle the other just below it. Once those are out, you just pop the door off, and I highly recommend unscrewing the door controls from the door to make it easier to work without the door hanging in your way. Now keep in mind that the stock front speakers have their wiring on the outside, so youll have to reroute the wire into the door, which isnt hard there is a spot for it to go and come out of the speaker hole. All in all once you get into a groove its pretty simple, or you can pull off all of the door panels and just put them on as you install.
http://www.scoobymods.com/showthread.php/speaker-install-pics-xv-crosstrek-14244.html?s=dc113db8cf8394bd68d0c7cc4f98af25&
 

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Geronomo,

I went with almost the exact same setup except I installed the Kicker CS65 instead of the DS65 (along with the Kicker tweeter upgrades). Overall I am pleased with the clarity, but could definitely use a bit more bass. I'm hoping after the "break-in" period and my ears adjusting to not hearing complete crap speakers that it will sound even better. To be honest though I think there's only so much the stock head units can handle. Even with an amp or much more expensive speakers, I think there's a "cut off" point for how good it can sound.

Here are some pics of the installation and finished product. Admittedly, I went pretty crazy with the Dynamat. I had a bulk pack I ordered from Amazon so I tried to put it around every exposed piece of metal and even on the back side of the plastic door panels. On the bright side all my doors are heavier and close like a bank vault now! I look forward to opening and closing them! Bumps don't transfer through the cabin as much and definitely sounds quieter at highway speeds.

 

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youwent crazy with the dynamat but not crazy enough! Gotta seal em up tight to keep the bass tight and the water out!

 

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Coletrain,

This may sound ridiculous but how the hell do I completely disconnect the wiring harnesses from the door panels so I can get them out of the way? I have some leftover Dynamat that I'm going to use to re-fill the inside sheet metal of the door this weekend. When applying it before I got frustrated because I couldn't get the wiring harnesses disconnected so I ended up just moving the door out my way while still connected when I was applying the Dynamat. The power door lock and door handle cables aren't an issue, but for some reason I cannot disconnect the other wiring harnesses and I feel like I've tried everything (yanking down, squeezing plastic clips from both sides, etc.)

Any help is appreciated! 8)
 

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Using a short Phillips screw driver. The FROUNT door panels their's two screws below the control switch pad. You loosen the bracket, it'll slide over now you can remove control switch pad. The BACK door panels you have to remove the screws in order to remove the control switch pad. After putting on Gt mat/ dynamat on the back side skin of door. That's all that's needed to eliminate that drumming sound going down the highway. Your just adding weight if you continue to double up on it, you might as well fill it with cement it's cheaper. Jute padding absorbs road noise put that between the door panel and the plastic vapor. Google this their's a world of information out their.http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/94-98-engine/576543-ideas-consider-when-soundproofing-your-truck.html
 

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ajr017 said:
Coletrain,

This may sound ridiculous but how the hell do I completely disconnect the wiring harnesses from the door panels so I can get them out of the way? I have some leftover Dynamat that I'm going to use to re-fill the inside sheet metal of the door this weekend. When applying it before I got frustrated because I couldn't get the wiring harnesses disconnected so I ended up just moving the door out my way while still connected when I was applying the Dynamat. The power door lock and door handle cables aren't an issue, but for some reason I cannot disconnect the other wiring harnesses and I feel like I've tried everything (yanking down, squeezing plastic clips from both sides, etc.)

Any help is appreciated! 8)
Removing the whole switch panel is too much work. On click and a plug is removed.

I fully depress the tab on the white plugs with a small flat head screwdriver while pulling on the plug. Fingers are too fat to FULLY depress the locking tab. It helps to have someone holding the door card for you but I was able to do it alone by taking the strain off the wires while propping the door card up with my foot. I was sitting down on my rolling shop seat at the time and rotated the whole card so I could get a better look.

Remember to reset the driver's window auto up function after you put it all back together. Details are in your drivers manual, but I think you roll the drivers' window up and hold the switch in the up position for a few seconds, release, then roll the window all the way back down. Then the auto function is restored. Since you remove the plugs, the system loses power and "forgets" what position the window is in. No big deal.

I believe there are two plugs per front door IIRC.
 

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I can relate to what your saying. It's best to have a friend help the first time, in doing this. Those disconnect harnesses each one is a different configuration, no two are the same. I guess that's to keep from mixing them up with other connectors. While someones holding the door panel, with a small nail or screw driver, use a light (flash light) one of the sides will have a very small tab to push in. As you push in on the tab, then pull it. It will release from the harness. I put some red nail polish (car touch up paint), black marks-a-lot on the tab and tab socket so it'll be easy to assemble and disassemble if their's a next time.
 

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Has anyone gone to Crutchfield for speaker replacement? They will give you a sheet that will give you step by step directions for door panel removal. They also sell connectors for your car, so there is no wire cutting. I have used them for all on my car audio needs and have been VERY pleased with the results, even head unit replacement has been a snap with their instruction sheets. I did a sat nav head replacement in my 07 FJ Cruiser. Used their connector system and it was a snap. Check them out.
 
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