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Discussion Starter #1
Finally got around to getting my Torklift hitch installed.

I didn't take many pictures as the instructions pretty well cover that. Apparently the instructions now include two sets of instructions, a set that avoids any drilling whatsoever (but requires removal of the bumper) and a set that requires two holes be enlarged. The instructions that came with my hitch (here in color) only had the instructions for enlarging the two holes. I feel like the instructions were good overall, but need a couple points of clarification, as I was a little confused until we actually got hands-on with it.

Steps 1-6 are pretty clear. Step 7 is mostly, but I'd read elsewhere to just file out a bit of the hole instead of completely opening it up as a wider diameter hole. Don't take that advice; definitely make it a larger diameter hole. That made things much easier on us.

Step 9 is where you're feeding the bolts in. What we didn't realize is that the holes you enlarge do not align with any of the holes below into which you'll be installing the bolt. I don't know why they instruct you to enlarge only these two holes, as the other ones would be easier to work with, but we assumed there was a good/valid reason, and went with it.

The method we found that worked best was to have one person feed the boltfisher in and toward the rear of the vehicle. Another person was underneath watching the wire come toward the back. This person took a pair of needle nose pliers to grab the boltfisher and pull it out the appropriate hole (rear-most first, then front-most). Took a couple rounds to make it smooth, but by bolts 3 and 4 we were pros.

Steps 11-13 refer to taking the exhaust down by pulling the hangers out of the rubber bushings. We lubricated them with 112 (I think? We were at a guy's place who has all sorts of handy stuff) and pulled them off by placing a pair of channel locks on the end and the backside of the bushing, then squeezing. Taking them off without lubrication is miserable.

Step 14 says to ease the hitch into position. Before you can do that, there are two braces that connect the bottom of the rear bumper to the frame (I think. Writing this from memory. Don't remember for sure where they attached up high, but definitely attach to the bottom of the bumper). Unhook these at the bottom of the bumper; they are attached with plastic rivets of sorts where one piece pops into a second which then expands to hold it in place. Just pry the two parts apart gently. Then you can ease the hitch into place. You will need to pull the bottom of the bumper down a bit and push the braces toward the front of the car. There's no need to worry about moving that stuff around as long as you don't get too crazy with it.


one of the braces

For your sanity's sake, be very very careful when putting the hitch onto the bolts. Bolts sliding around in the frame are not fun ;)

I think that clears up the spots where we struggled to understand the instructions. If anyone has any questions, ask away.

The pictures:

Hitch installed.


Hitch/exhaust clearance


hitch/bumper area from underneath


Bike hitch installed. The right edge of the white tape marks the point where Torklift recommend cutting the stinger to avoid hitting the exhaust. To my eye, there's no need to cut it in this case; you can't tell from the picture, but there's about a 1/4" gap. I do plan to keep an eye on it just in case, but I don't think there will be an issue.


bike rack mounted


rack mounted, folded up.




Edit to add: the factory knockout is still used with this hitch. Didn't take a picture of that, but there's no need. When the hitch isn't in use, the knockout plate goes back in and you'd never know it was there.
 

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Looks fantastic!!

Great.. now I want to get one of those too. LOL

I'm going to have to curb my surfing this Forum. Every time I log on, I see another goodie I want!
 

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I like that it's tucked up high. And mostly hidden. Terrific!!
 

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I'm new to the whole buying a new car thing and this might be a kind of dumb question, but would installing something like this void the warranty through Subaru?
 

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Discussion Starter #5
mikeylee31 said:
I'm new to the whole buying a new car thing and this might be a kind of dumb question, but would installing something like this void the warranty through Subaru?
No reason why it should.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I just found one minor issue on the Torklift hitch. For me it's minor anyway; it will range from non-issue for some to major issue (dealbreaker?) for others, but I figure it's worth the mention.

If you're using a hitch with a threaded hitch pin, you don't have a lot of room to rotate a wrench to tighten it down, maybe 30-45 degrees of movement between the hitch and the bumper fascia. In my mind it's not a huge issue, but it's something to be aware of.
 

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I am so enamored with this hitch. It just beats the factory and other aftermarket hitches all to hell. And the cover plate completely hides it.

What about break-away chains for a trailer? Do they just go under the valence and hook to the hitch? I guess a guy could attach a couple of high-strength caribiners or closed chain loops.

I guess it's cheaper than a factory, but a hundred more than a Curt. Oh well!
 

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It's nice for sure. I'm still looking for all the parts to do the rear fog light but maybe I'll fail on that and go this route.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
CJBROWN said:
What about break-away chains for a trailer? Do they just go under the valence and hook to the hitch? I guess a guy could attach a couple of high-strength caribiners or closed chain loops.

I guess it's cheaper than a factory, but a hundred more than a Curt. Oh well!
You can see in this picture where they connect on the front-most [relative to the vehicle] part of the hitch, so they do go under/behind the bumper. This is definitely a downside if the hitch should ever fail as your bumper fascia could be ripped to crap.

I hadn't considered high strength carabiners, but that's something to think about. If you do this be absolutely sure you get steel and not aluminum (and locking as opposed to quick-gates)... I know that should be a no-brainer, but you'll be surprised what some people will do.*
chasem said:

Hitch installed.



*I worked outdoor recreation for a little over a year. We kept all our equipment locked up appropriately and so on. We went out to our 800' zip line one morning to begin setting up for the day to find that some mischievous folk had ripped down our ropes and aluminum carabiners that marked our footpath to the top, fashioned makeshift harnesses out of them, and clipped the aluminum carabiners directly to our steel zip cables. Of course they had no way to get themselves and the 'biners/ropes down, so they left the equipment dangling from the lines.

When we got them off the lines, we found that the 'biners had worn through almost completely. Had our zip lines been another 50' or so longer, we would have found more than just ropes and carabiner as evidence... and none of it would have been dangling from the lines.
 

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Thanks very much for taking the time to document/photograph this. I was wanting to see some opinions before I spent the $$$ on it.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I747 using Tapatalk 2
 

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This is definitely on my list...right after Weathertech mats...
 

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Nice install, love the hitch. I really want one, but I am trying to be honest by telling myself I would never really use it. Sure I might take a bike somewhere every now and then, but not enough to justify a full hitch.

However, I stil realllly want one.
 

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ClubCrosstrek, I'm right there with you...except my plan is to use the hitch for hauling bikes. Better for my needs than on the roof...so something I'm going to have to do.

I'm also thinking that the hitch would be a great way, using the wiring harness that I won't need to haul bikes, to install a light in that spot. Simply use the hitch to mount a hitch light when the bike rack isn't on the car.
 

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Re: Re: Got my Torklift hitch installed

Skidder said:
ClubCrosstrek, I'm right there with you...except my plan is to use the hitch for hauling bikes. Better for my needs than on the roof...so something I'm going to have to do.

I'm also thinking that the hitch would be a great way, using the wiring harness that I won't need to haul bikes, to install a light in that spot. Simply use the hitch to mount a hitch light when the bike rack isn't on the car.
There is a thread on here somewhere (on my tablet so harder to search/link) about a rear fog light in the hitch pop out. I think Subir_roo is looking into how to do it.

Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk 2
 

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Okay, getting ready to order one of these and had a couple of questions.

The knock-out plate in the back valance is easy to pop out from behind. You have to depress the top tabs and then it tilts out. How do you access those tabs once the hitch is installed? I don't really want to lay on the ground every time I want to use the hitch. Or once you have the housing trimmed out is it easier to access those tabs from behind?

It seems there's not much room behind the hitch in front of the muffler - they're giving a limit to the insert length behind the slider pin. Do you find most things fit or does everything have to be trimmed off in order to fit? Not a big deal, just curious. All I'll have is a hitch ball insert and a bike rack, they can easily be shortened if necessary. Or install a smaller muffler. ;)
 

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Discussion Starter #16
CJBROWN said:
Okay, getting ready to order one of these and had a couple of questions.

The knock-out plate in the back valance is easy to pop out from behind. You have to depress the top tabs and then it tilts out. How do you access those tabs once the hitch is installed? I don't really want to lay on the ground every time I want to use the hitch. Or once you have the housing trimmed out is it easier to access those tabs from behind?
I've still popped mine out from underneath, so there's still room to do that. But you should be able to use a screwdriver or something similar from behind the vehicle. (iirc, Subaru recommends using a cloth-covered screwdriver)

CJBROWN said:
It seems there's not much room behind the hitch in front of the muffler - they're giving a limit to the insert length behind the slider pin. Do you find most things fit or does everything have to be trimmed off in order to fit?
My bike rack fit fine with enough clearance to not require any trimming. The instructions list the recommended length from the center of the hitch pin hole.
 

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Ordered mine. $259 with free shipping. FedEx says it will be here Wednesday. Thanks again for all the helpful install notes and pics. Will post when on.....can't wait.
 

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Discussion Starter #18

Bike hitch installed. The right edge of the white tape marks the point where Torklift recommend cutting the stinger to avoid hitting the exhaust. To my eye, there's no need to cut it in this case; you can't tell from the picture, but there's about a 1/4" gap. I do plan to keep an eye on it just in case, but I don't think there will be an issue.
Apologies for bumping an older thread, but I just wanted to come back and comment further on this. After having the bike hitch hooked up a bit, I have kept an eye on the exhaust. It's clear that the hitch stinger and exhaust have made contact. There's no serious damage, but it's clear that they did make contact.

Turns out, the folks at Torklift know what they're doing, and you absolutely should cut the hitch stinger where they recommend ;)
 

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Chasem<

My Eco Hitch is on the way....this will prolly be answered in the instructions but..... Do you know

With the rear cover removed do you still need to drop the muffler/exhaust to install.

Thanks

Wing
 

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Hey Wingnut-by rear cover if you mean rear bumper cover then I don't think you need to do anything with exhaust. The instructions give you two different ways.... one with bumper on, the other with it off. The way I did it, I left bumper in place and moved exhaust which is a very easy task. It's 3-4 rubber bushings off the muffler tabs. One spray of WD 40 and they pop right off. The only "challenge" is enlarging two holes and on either side of spare tire and feeding bolts through frame. The bolt feeding is surprisingly easy and they provide the tool. If you're not accustomed to drilling/widening a metal hole then you may have some apprehension with this method. It is quite simple though IMO. The instructions walk you right through it. Plus you always have us! 8)

Edit: there are a few other threads on this particular hitch set-up if you're looking for more info. Good luck!
 
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