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Im honestly surprised that the radiator made it that long!

Back in the GD chassis of the WRX, they were kinda thought of as "ticking time bombs"
where right around 100k miles they would leak at the metal/plastic joint.

Did you just replace 5th gear? Know if the newer 2018+ 6-speed would drop right in?
 

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Discussion Starter #263
Im honestly surprised that the radiator made it that long!

Back in the GD chassis of the WRX, they were kinda thought of as "ticking time bombs"
where right around 100k miles they would leak at the metal/plastic joint.

Did you just replace 5th gear? Know if the newer 2018+ 6-speed would drop right in?
I did replace the 5th 'gear' a couple 100k ago but this time it was the actual shaft that stripped the splines. Sorry, wasn't clear on that.
I would love to swap a 6 speed but no one can give me a clear answer as if it will match up and whether or not the gear ratio will match the rear differential (I'm picky that way).
 

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According to this: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_Subaru_transmissions


The 5MT in a 2012+ is:

Gear Ratios: 1st 3.454 2nd 1.888 3rd 1.296 4th 0.972 5th 0.738 Rev 3.333 Final 4.111


The 6MT in the newer Crosstrek is:


Gear Ratios are: 1st 3.818 2nd 1.947 3rd 1.296 4th 1.029 5th 0.825 6th 0.738 Final Drive 4.44:1





You get a deeper first gear in the 6MT for more off-the-line grunt. But with the same top overdrive of 0.738 you would see the same freeway RPMs as what you have.


I can't speak to how well it would bolt up in your car but you wouldn't have to worry about axle ratios.
 

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Discussion Starter #265
According to this: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_Subaru_transmissions


The 5MT in a 2012+ is:

Gear Ratios: 1st 3.454 2nd 1.888 3rd 1.296 4th 0.972 5th 0.738 Rev 3.333 Final 4.111



The 6MT in the newer Crosstrek is:


Gear Ratios are: 1st 3.818 2nd 1.947 3rd 1.296 4th 1.029 5th 0.825 6th 0.738 Final Drive 4.44:1





You get a deeper first gear in the 6MT for more off-the-line grunt. But with the same top overdrive of 0.738 you would see the same freeway RPMs as what you have.


I can't speak to how well it would bolt up in your car but you wouldn't have to worry about axle ratios.
Awesome, thanks for the info! It still wouldn't work with the stock diff because of the final drive;
4.11:1 vs 4.44:1. Even if it bolted right up, which it should, I would still have to do a differential swap also. I do like the low end grunt though. Not a huge swap issue, something to consider.
Thx.
 

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Awesome, thanks for the info! It still wouldn't work with the stock diff because of the final drive;
4.11:1 vs 4.44:1. Even if it bolted right up, which it should, I would still have to do a differential swap also. I do like the low end grunt though. Not a huge swap issue, something to consider.
Thx.

That's right. I'm used to Jeeps where the transmission and axle are separate. With a Jeep, you can swap a transmission without touching the axles. But I forgot we're dealing with a transaxle and it has the differential with 4.44's as one unit.


Still in all, could be an interesting swap. I wonder how well it would directly bolt in. It probably has the same engine bolt pattern so that part would work. But what about the rest of the mounting? How close are the two to each other in outside dimensions and mounting locations?


And which ratio would you go with? The 4.44 in the rear or see if you can fit 4.11 in the front?
 

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Discussion Starter #267
That's right. I'm used to Jeeps where the transmission and axle are separate. With a Jeep, you can swap a transmission without touching the axles. But I forgot we're dealing with a transaxle and it has the differential with 4.44's as one unit.


Still in all, could be an interesting swap. I wonder how well it would directly bolt in. It probably has the same engine bolt pattern so that part would work. But what about the rest of the mounting? How close are the two to each other in outside dimensions and mounting locations?


And which ratio would you go with? The 4.44 in the rear or see if you can fit 4.11 in the front?
Since the engine is basically the same it should bolt right up. I'm still thinking you would have to consider transmission, mounts, clutch, shifter(?), front axle, driveshaft and rear diff. Then you still need to consider how that will effect speedo accuracy. Interesting project but for a daily driver maybe not worth it just for a little more low end grunt.
 

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Yeah, and when it's involved in your primary income, probably not worth experimenting.


Still, it would be an interesting project for someone to try.
 

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Wolverine12,

I have 112,500 on my '13, and the left front wheel clacks under hard left turns. Have you had any issue with CV joints?
 

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Discussion Starter #277
Wolverine12,

I have 112,500 on my '13, and the left front wheel clacks under hard left turns. Have you had any issue with CV joints?
That is definitely a cv joint clack. I usually get 175k - 200k out of an axle before it makes the telltale clicking. Now to be fair, 85% of my driving is straight highway so there isn't as much cornering but at the same time, I have a 2" lift which increases the torque angle thus increasing the strain. 112k isn't much for a cv joint but it does depend on how hard you push it into the corners. DO NOT use aftermarket axles. The best I ever averaged out of one was 40k before the boot tore and even at that I had pretty bad vibration the last 10k.
 

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I went for aftermarket. Figured I was getting 100k out of OEM, if I got 50k out of aftermarket but it only costs 1/4 the price AND has a lifetime warranty, I’d still be ahead. Except I’m no longer getting 50k out of them. Used to have decent luck with Cardone, not anymore. They are all garbage.

You can only change so many axles until you get really over it and decide your time is worth more than the $300 you saved.


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