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I did, however, talk to RCV Performance about some actual high performance CV axles. They’d need 10 sets sold at about $1500/set in order to develop it. To me, $750/axle for something that will legitimately stand up to the abuse (and is rebuildable, and is backed by a lifetime warranty, and is made in the USA) is totally worth it when the OEM axles are $400/ea. I just need to figure out what’s all interchangeable.


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I went for aftermarket. Figured I was getting 100k out of OEM, if I got 50k out of aftermarket but it only costs 1/4 the price AND has a lifetime warranty, I’d still be ahead. Except I’m no longer getting 50k out of them. Used to have decent luck with Cardone, not anymore. They are all garbage.

You can only change so many axles until you get really over it and decide your time is worth more than the $300 you saved.


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AND thats taking into consideration that YOU'RE doing the work and not paying shops hourly rate for maint ;)

Which, for at least the 3 of us (me, you, Wolverine) is doing :)
 

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Discussion Starter #283
I went for aftermarket. Figured I was getting 100k out of OEM, if I got 50k out of aftermarket but it only costs 1/4 the price AND has a lifetime warranty, I’d still be ahead. Except I’m no longer getting 50k out of them. Used to have decent luck with Cardone, not anymore. They are all garbage.

You can only change so many axles until you get really over it and decide your time is worth more than the $300 you saved.


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Been there, done that!
 

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Thanks for the CV joint info, fellas. Gonna try to push to the 150k mark, but will definitely go OEM when the time comes.
 

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Wolverine -

Just checking in for your updates - I am always amazed at your posts - thanks again!

I'm slowly trekking along at 158k in my 2013 MT. Oil consumption has increased to 1-2 quarts every 500 miles...I appreciate your advice about finding an engine on ebay and finding a mechanic to install. That seems like a pretty big undertaking - no clue what to look for in terms of a listed engine.

I recently started hearing the right front clacking that mnr497 just mentioned...otherwise, I can't complain too much. No real big service issues. As annoyed as I am with the oil consumption, it really has been a great car.

I've been getting the itch to get a newer car. I drove a new impreza when the dealership was fixing my valve spring recall. I'd like to hang in with this car for another year...and I'd really love to see 200k.

Krista
 

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Wolverine12, you mentioned getting Pirelli tires. How'd they work for you? Ride quality, noise, and longevity? Are they better than the OEM Yokohamas?
 

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Discussion Starter #287
Wolverine -

Just checking in for your updates - I am always amazed at your posts - thanks again!

I'm slowly trekking along at 158k in my 2013 MT. Oil consumption has increased to 1-2 quarts every 500 miles...I appreciate your advice about finding an engine on ebay and finding a mechanic to install. That seems like a pretty big undertaking - no clue what to look for in terms of a listed engine.

I recently started hearing the right front clacking that mnr497 just mentioned...otherwise, I can't complain too much. No real big service issues. As annoyed as I am with the oil consumption, it really has been a great car.

I've been getting the itch to get a newer car. I drove a new impreza when the dealership was fixing my valve spring recall. I'd like to hang in with this car for another year...and I'd really love to see 200k.

Krista
First off, I'm really sorry to see that kind of oil consumption at only 158k. Second, I would take it back to the dealer that did your valve spring fix because unless you drive it like you stole it or you have an oil leak something internal is not right and it is possible the mechanic messed up (I know, that never happens).
I got over 600,000 miles on my first engine with far less oil consumption than yours and the only reason I pulled it was that no matter what I did, I kept getting a misfire code and found a burnt valve was the culprit.
 

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Discussion Starter #288
Wolverine12, you mentioned getting Pirelli tires. How'd they work for you? Ride quality, noise, and longevity? Are they better than the OEM Yokohamas?
Pirreli P4's were my choice but they are no longer available and have been replaced by the much more expensive P6. Too expensive to replace a set every 5-6 months. The last 4 sets I have been using Nankang. Inexpensive, smooth ride, quiet and great ice and snow traction. I've been averaging 85,000 miles a set.
 

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Wolverine -

Just checking in for your updates - I am always amazed at your posts - thanks again!

I'm slowly trekking along at 158k in my 2013 MT. Oil consumption has increased to 1-2 quarts every 500 miles...I appreciate your advice about finding an engine on ebay and finding a mechanic to install. That seems like a pretty big undertaking - no clue what to look for in terms of a listed engine.

I recently started hearing the right front clacking that mnr497 just mentioned...otherwise, I can't complain too much. No real big service issues. As annoyed as I am with the oil consumption, it really has been a great car.

I've been getting the itch to get a newer car. I drove a new impreza when the dealership was fixing my valve spring recall. I'd like to hang in with this car for another year...and I'd really love to see 200k.

Krista

Go for another vehicle. . .Out of curiousity were you hard on the vehicle? I just got a Crosstrek and I've read some real horror stories in thread on Subaru forums. I'm wondering if I made a bad decision getting a Crosstrek. I've already entertained selling the Crosstrek due to what I've read in terms of oil consumption and replacing head gasket at or around 100K. If that is something I potentially need to look forward to, I'll get rid of it. . .


I kept my gas gussler 4.6L Ford Exploda with 186K on it, thankfully it doesn't burn oil. I'm a older woman with a leadfoot and I've got to say to this point the vehicle served me well. My mechanic says that thing is fast. . .From day #1 I was hard on it, a lot of jack rabbit starts, I'm not exaggerating peddle to the metal and even a few race on various Interstates. I kept the oil changed every 3-4K full synthethic with a K&N oil n air filter. I've never followed manufacture recommendation. People would say, you're throwing away money, but you know what, it was my money and the vehicle is still here and still has a lot of pep. I've done normal maintainence like wheel bearing, strut/shock, brakes, exhaust manifold and one pulley which I think was attributed from the jack rabbit starts. Overall I've grown tired of making oil companies richer getting 15-16 mpg combined driving. Recently little things started to happen so I figured it's time to get into another vehicle while I can. I figured don't wait and let the vehicle take me to the cleaners. Where I live without a vehicle, I'm stuck, the nearest bus stop is 4 miles away and there's no sidewalk to walk on to get to it. Perhaps I need to sell the Crosstrek and get into a 6 cylinder, it seems 4s all have issues. . .The new Honda CRV from what I've read have issue with gas getting into the oil; I'm not crazy about the Toyota Rav. . .
 

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I’m led to believe that the head gasket issue was resolved with new “turbo” type head gaskets a while ago.
The low friction ring experiment has yet to be decided. The latest crosstrek engine 2018 and up is so far, I believe, without issues. Earlier people weren’t so lucky with oil consumption.
It’s a high strung engine but also greatly improved. 0-20 oil is exclusively premium.
Change it frequently warm it up till the blue light goes on. Run it a bit after the highway.
The VVT system, coupled with direct injection, patented oil separating crank case ventilation system.
The compression stroke is reduced by up to 10.5/1 by VVT.
The native compression stroke is 12.5/1
So During an expansion stroke excellent energy efficiency is maintained.
Super cool perfectly running engines too bad about HP
 

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Hey Everybody,

I have a 2015 crosstrek with a CVT I bought new in California, April of 2015. Have always ran regular unleaded 87 gas. I’ve done a transmission fluid change at 100k, and again just now at 200k. I just hit 200k today! Also had my axels replaced at 99,997 miles right before my 100k warranty expired! Just had to replace my axels again at 200k and opted for OEM after reading through various forums. My transmission Valve body recently had to be replaced around190k. As far as other major problems I’ve had, at 60k, the connection plug where the blower motor for the AC and heater connects to the control console melted, it just happened again at 190k. Unfortunately, The plug in my steering wheel for the horn went out and needed replacement at the same time. The labor to take the steering wheel apart cost more then the part! At 100k & 200k I also replaced the spark plugs, and all the other fluids on my car. As far as brakes, I had to fully replace the brakes at 175k after refinishing my original rotors once before many miles ago. Other than those issues my car has ran great and continues to get killer gas mileage. Average 40+ MPG on highways going 65-75mph by watching my RPM and MPG gauge periodically. I live in Northern California and do a majority of long highway driving, as well as off-roading occasionally. I have been very pleased with my car thus far. Have had some concerns with the CVT going out on me after hitting 200k considering what I’ve read on forums. However, after my mechanic found used ones from 2015 for $700-1000 with 20-40k miles on them I’m feeling alot better about getting this car past 400k miles. Especially with a solid service routine moving forward with the knowledge I’ve gained from multiple forums like this.
 

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Hey Everybody,

I have a 2015 crosstrek with a CVT I bought new in California, April of 2015. Have always ran regular unleaded 87 gas. I’ve done a transmission fluid change at 100k, and again just now at 200k. I just hit 200k today! Also had my axels replaced at 99,997 miles right before my 100k warranty expired! Just had to replace my axels again at 200k and opted for OEM after reading through various forums. My transmission Valve body recently had to be replaced around190k. As far as other major problems I’ve had, at 60k, the connection plug where the blower motor for the AC and heater connects to the control console melted, it just happened again at 190k. Unfortunately, The plug in my steering wheel for the horn went out and needed replacement at the same time. The labor to take the steering wheel apart cost more then the part! At 100k & 200k I also replaced the spark plugs, and all the other fluids on my car. As far as brakes, I had to fully replace the brakes at 175k after refinishing my original rotors once before many miles ago. Other than those issues my car has ran great and continues to get killer gas mileage. Average 40+ MPG on highways going 65-75mph by watching my RPM and MPG gauge periodically. I live in Northern California and do a majority of long highway driving, as well as off-roading occasionally. I have been very pleased with my car thus far. Have had some concerns with the CVT going out on me after hitting 200k considering what I’ve read on forums. However, after my mechanic found used ones from 2015 for $700-1000 with 20-40k miles on them I’m feeling alot better about getting this car past 400k miles. Especially with a solid service routine moving forward with the knowledge I’ve gained from multiple forums like this.
I also have a 2015 with the CVT. Nice to see the transmission can last 200k.
 

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Hey Everybody,

I have a 2015 crosstrek with a CVT I bought new in California, April of 2015. Have always ran regular unleaded 87 gas. I’ve done a transmission fluid change at 100k, and again just now at 200k. I just hit 200k today! Also had my axels replaced at 99,997 miles right before my 100k warranty expired! Just had to replace my axels again at 200k and opted for OEM after reading through various forums. My transmission Valve body recently had to be replaced around190k. As far as other major problems I’ve had, at 60k, the connection plug where the blower motor for the AC and heater connects to the control console melted, it just happened again at 190k. Unfortunately, The plug in my steering wheel for the horn went out and needed replacement at the same time. The labor to take the steering wheel apart cost more then the part! At 100k & 200k I also replaced the spark plugs, and all the other fluids on my car. As far as brakes, I had to fully replace the brakes at 175k after refinishing my original rotors once before many miles ago. Other than those issues my car has ran great and continues to get killer gas mileage. Average 40+ MPG on highways going 65-75mph by watching my RPM and MPG gauge periodically. I live in Northern California and do a majority of long highway driving, as well as off-roading occasionally. I have been very pleased with my car thus far. Have had some concerns with the CVT going out on me after hitting 200k considering what I’ve read on forums. However, after my mechanic found used ones from 2015 for $700-1000 with 20-40k miles on them I’m feeling alot better about getting this car past 400k miles. Especially with a solid service routine moving forward with the knowledge I’ve gained from multiple forums like this.

A little hard to believe you are getting that good of gas mileage. 40 plus?? I recently took a trip to Kansas where the roads are flat and the absolute best I got was 36 mpg and that was at 55 mph. It quickly dropped to 31 when I went up to 65 to 70 mph. I was not relying on the dash as it is never right, it is always overly optimistic. On a windy day my highway mileage dropped to 25. And this is with the car empty with only me in it.
 

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I just hit 100,000 miles on my 2018 CVT, it has had every oil change on recommended intervals at the dealership(Expensive).

I am now having to consider whether to have the CVT fluid change done. I also need new brake pads on this next service. What do you guys think about the "Sealed CVT" being serviced.

Car doesn't get driven over the speed limit and 95% of the miles are interstate.
 

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Discussion Starter #298
Well I must apologize for being out of touch but I've been incredibly busy since Thanksgiving. At 873,000 miles my right rear wheel bearing was trying to get my attention so, considering all of my wheel bearing are original, I decided to replace both of the REAR bearings only. The front bearings still sound and feel very good. WARNING; these are a PIA to replace! They WILL be rusted in place. If you try and replace them yourself, you will need PB blaster, a hammer, chisels, the biggest sledge hammer you can get, 2 days for the PB blaster to soak in and a hell of a lot of patience. Clean all surfaces prior to re-install with wire brush and emery cloth. Lube mating surfaces with a fine coat of a synthetic lube to prevent rust and DON'T BUY CHEAP BEARINGS!
 

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Only 873K out of a set of wheel bearings? What is the world coming to?! 😸

I love this thread - thanks @Wolverine12
 
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