I’m changing to 5-30w

 

I'm not. I run very well formulated 0w16 or 0w20 and have 0, yeah 0 oil consumption. 6000 mile oil drains. Amsoil, Valvoline RESTORE and PROTECT periodically to clean all those deposit areas mentioned.

VISCOSITY of the engine oil is NOT the issue. Going to 5w30 is needless but a QUICK FIX to uninformed.

High fuels dilution of improperly tuned engines is THE main issue. My injectors started building deposits on day 1. DI does that.

Keep injectors CLEAN with top tier fuel or E15 and you will not have a problem.

Retired research chemist here from Cummins engine company and owned a oil analysis consultancy for 45 years.

Don't jump the gun until one understands the SCIENCE behind SYMPTOMS. Mechanics and techs see SYMPTOMS unless they are well informed.

Cheers

 

IF U USE THE OIL SUGGESTED BY SUBARU, YOU WILL RUN INTO ALL SORTS OF PROBLEMS. THE ABOVE VIDEO MAKES PERFECT SENSE. WATCH THE WHOLE THING. IT'S VERY INFORMATIVE

Great video but totally ignores underlying issues that cause new engines to use oil. He mixes up loose engines with worn engines. The molecular structure of your engine oil matters not the viscosity ( use viscosity engineers wanted and designed engine for) in science its called MOFT. MIN OIL FILM THICKNESS at DYNAMIC measure that every engine maker sets and TESTS for.

 

IF U USE THE OIL SUGGESTED BY SUBARU, YOU WILL RUN INTO ALL SORTS OF PROBLEMS. THE ABOVE VIDEO MAKES PERFECT SENSE. WATCH THE WHOLE THING. IT'S VERY INFORMATIVE

this is not gospel, makes for a discussion though, buyer beware, in order to maintain your warranty, use the oil suggested by Subaru!!

 

For warranty all Subaru can demand for warranty is using the recommended oil viscosity grade and API spec. If they recommend a particular brand Subaru must BUY it for you. On the other hand Subaru is notorious for denying warranty for anything they choose to. I welcome Subaru denying warranty anything I do to my Crosstrek that meets their standards of maintenance and backed up with oil analysis and data to show what failed when if it does. I don't live in fear of warranty but I am a forensic tribologist and because of that training, experience, and science welcome the challenge while I enjoy a quiet, clean, optimally burning 2.5 H4 engine saving me time, money and setting up for long term success way past 100,000 miles or a 60,000 mile drivetrain warranty. Now electronic issues another concern and glad I live in rural mountains of Colorado where heat is less of an issue.

 

So why do European Subaru dealers use 5-30?

 

No idea. Have to ask Subaru engineering.

 

I wrote to Lake Speed about this. Based on what he said, and my own curiosity, I ordered some of his oil test kits, so we’ll see what happens.


“Because each engine and operating environment is fairly unique, there is not a single best oil for all engines and in all applications. However, here is the proper framework for finding a great oil for your engine and application.

Step 1 - Utilize the OEM recommended oil and do two early oil changes during the break-in process (500 to 1,000 miles and again between 3,000 and 4,000 miles). If the engine is already broken-in, skip to step 3.

Step 2 - Take used oil samples at each oil change to establish the trend analysis.

Step 3 - Go 5,000 miles on the third oil change and take a used oil sample. If the wear rate per 1,000 miles is below 5 ppm, you are good. If the wear rate is between 5 ppm and 10 ppm per 1,000 miles, go another 5,000 miles on the OEM recommended oil and resample. If the wear rate is still greater than 5 ppm per 1,000 miles, then move to step 4.

Step 4 - Since the OEM recommended oil and viscosity have not produced a wear rate per 1,000 miles lower than 5 ppm, go up to next viscosity grade in the OEM oil. Go 4,000 to 5,000 miles on that oil and then take another sample. See if the change in viscosity drops the wear rate per 1,000 miles below 5 ppm. If it does, you are good. If it does not, then move to Step 5.

Step 5 - Since the change in viscosity did not get the wear rate per 1,000 miles below 5 ppm, try a different brand of oil in the same viscosity grade of whichever viscosity had the lowest wear rate per 1,000 miles. You will need to use it for 3,000 to 4,000 miles to flush the OEM oil out of the system before going 5,000 miles on the new oil to take another sample. See if the non-OEM oil lowers the wear rate per 1,000 miles to 5 ppm or less. If it does, you are good. You can then use the oil analysis results to fine tune the oil change interval.

If the wear rate per 1,000 miles is still above 5 ppm, try the next higher viscosity oil of that same brand to see if that lowers the wear rate per 1,000 miles. Finding the best oil for an engine is an iterative process, but the data from the samples (viscosity, additive depletion, wear rate) will paint a picture that guides you in the right direction.

It is best to begin with the OEM specified viscosity grade. Engines with the correct surface finish can run 0W-16 or lighter grade oils without problems. As mentioned in many of our videos, the only way to know if the higher viscosity oil will reduce wear in your engine is to do used oil analysis before and after changing to a higher viscosity oil. Generally speaking, the higher viscosity oil tends to reduce wear, but we don’t always see that result. If the oil is too thick for the engine, the wear can be much worse.”

 

IF U USE THE OIL SUGGESTED BY SUBARU, YOU WILL RUN INTO ALL SORTS OF PROBLEMS. THE ABOVE VIDEO MAKES PERFECT SENSE. WATCH THE WHOLE THING. IT'S VERY INFORMATIVE

2019 outback 2.5 priemere and before that we had a 2015 limited. Both fully loaded.
0 oil consumption issues.
both broken in with normal low speed stop and go city driving and a few too frequent oil changes.
I always use the same Mobil 0-20 synthetic, I always drain it hot. I check the oil temp.
I have a case of the black Subaru filters that they come with and I always provide my own filter.

I run 91 or 94 if they have it.
Did you know that via variable valve timing Subaru induces mild knocking in the engine to assist in a rapid warming cycle? Not in my engine it doesn’t.

I believe that not warming your vehicle up but then driving it hard will destroy the rings. Metals present like molybdenum don’t even start working until they’re warm. The Subaru has low friction rings will reach optimum expansion when warm. Don’t rev it often and only when it’s really warmed up.

Any how because this is a Crosstrek forum I beseech you too spend the xtra and get the 2.5.

 

Loving my 2.5. Very versatile in all situations. Sure the 2.3 turbo in my 2019 Ford had tons more hp and torque but the Subaru is under a lot less stress

 

Rather than start a separate thread on this, my question is on the ubiquitous dip stick / overfill issue. 2022 Crosstrek Ltd, 2.5L FB25 motor, bought new, 18K miles, so far 6 oil changes at the dealer-every 6 months...a dealer with a pretty good reputation, and checking the stick both warm and stone cold, it's just about 1/2" above the full mark. I have an extractor that I use on the other cars, so pulling out a bit of oil is not a big deal, but so many owners report this same situation that I wanted to ask...again.

Sorry, I used the search feature but found nothing conclusive.

Thanks for your time

PS: now that the dealer maintenance plan is expired, I'm going to 5W30

 

Doesn’t matter. A slight overfill in our boxer engines doesn’t harm or Subaru wouldn’t do it from factory.

 

I pulled out 1/2 gt and the stick is at the top mark. Good enough for now. Sorry for the repetitive questions. No response needed.

 

in the winter i'm going to use 0w20

 

Checkout my results, please read closely before asking questions. 0w-16 Valvoline did exceptionally well in 6050 miles.

test 1 OEM 0w-16
test 2 Valvoline Restore/Protect synthetic 0w-20
test 3 Valvoline Advanced synthetic 0w-16

 

THANKS FOR POSTING THIS, MUCH APPRECIATED