Will the 2.0 litre from a 2017 crosstrek be compatible with a 2014 crosstrek car, ecu and transmission?
Daves 14 crosstrek
And I just found this
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Peakz, I really wanted to share and help others so I did a full write up on NASIOC.....wasted hours putting it together and they never posted it. When I asked about it they never replied. To make it worse, I wrote the whole thing on their platform and didn't save a copy for myself . So after submitting it, now it's totally gone. That write up I did was pretty long winded, covering everything I ran into with the swap from 13-14 to a 15 up motor, and how I overcame it blah, blah blah. Might be easier if you have questions about certain things to ask that and I can reply. I have worked for and on Subaru for over 20 years and done many Frankenroos over the years so hopefully I can help.
Water pump and thermostat are a very good idea. Considering the water pump on this engine is external and easily accessible, on mine I did not replace it. I did open the timing cover but not to replace the chain components, just to reseal the cover. Subaru fixed their head gasket problems with these new timing chain engines but unfortunately these engines have leaking issues of their own. There is a lot of silicone sealing these things together and that is a failure point. Common oil leaks are timing cover and cam carriers. The timing cover can be resealed in the vehicle (pain in the a**) but cam carriers can't. Since they both tend to leak I resealed it all before I installed the engine. I don't know if your car is auto or manual but the front pump seal housing on the auto CVT transmission is also silicone and a very common point of leaks. If you have an auto trans I would suggest resealing that too while the engine is out. Other things to look for.... look closely at the timing covers. On 13-14 motors there is an extra pulley for the serpentine belt, this pulley is located in the upper middle part of the engine and there is a threaded boss in the timing cover itself where it bolts on. 15 and up motors do not have this boss. Meaning, depending on what year you have and what car that JDM came out of you may need to swap the timing cover from your old engine. This difference is subtle but it would really suck to not notice it, install the engine and then realize you have a problem. Also, look closely at the crank sensor, it's connector and the mounting bracket that holds it. They are very different from 13-14 to 15 up. I also suggest looking at the EGR and trans cooler (if you have auto trans) These are both located on the back of the right side cylinder head. If something is different between the two let me know and I will help you address that.
I just reread your original post and just noticed you said your VX is a 13. Your motor will definitely have that extra serpentine pulley. Look at your new motor when you get it. If it does not have the extra threaded boss in the timing cover I mentioned above you'll know it is a 15 and up FB20.
Hello, new to fb20’s. I’m swapping a later fb20 into my daughter in laws’s 13 cross trek and stuck with a crank sensor issue. Original one is 2 wire connector and replacement engine is 3 wire. You can’t just swap them because the hole in the blocks are in slightly different locations and orientation. Is there a crank sensor from a different model that is 2 wire, the correct length and orientation?
@Redlineyourtoy.
Have you made any progress with your swap? The crank sensor issue basically requires you to remove the sensor and the mounting plate that holds the sensor in. This sensor and plate is different on 13-14 XV compared to 15 and up. From the front side of the engine it looks like the mount for crank sensor is part of the block. The plate is attached on the backside of the engine (under flexplate/flywheel and reluctor ring. If you remove those components you will see 2 10mm bolts. After removing the bolts you will see below those bolts there are 2 small guide pins that are really tight. The first time I removed one I tried prying it gently from the flywheel side and one of those little ears snapped off. The second, and all subsequent times I have removed them I used a small punch and hammer and gently tapped it off through the hole on the front side of the motor. Making sure to hit it in the corners near where the guide pins are located. Gently tapping back and forth between each pin until it pops off. I attached a picture for you to help explain. (picture is an FB25 sensor but the process is the same) There are some other differences between the 13 and 17 FB20's but it will work, I've now done this swap 3 times. If you need any help just let me know.
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Have you made any progress with your swap? The crank sensor issue basically requires you to remove the sensor and the mounting plate that holds the sensor in. This sensor and plate is different on 13-14 XV compared to 15 and up. From the front side of the engine it looks like the mount for crank sensor is part of the block. The plate is attached on the backside of the engine (under flexplate/flywheel and reluctor ring. If you remove those components you will see 2 10mm bolts. After removing the bolts you will see below those bolts there are 2 small guide pins that are really tight. The first time I removed one I tried prying it gently from the flywheel side and one of those little ears snapped off. The second, and all subsequent times I have removed them I used a small punch and hammer and gently tapped it off through the hole on the front side of the motor. Making sure to hit it in the corners near where the guide pins are located. Gently tapping back and forth between each pin until it pops off. I attached a picture for you to help explain. (picture is an FB25 sensor but the process is the same) There are some other differences between the 13 and 17 FB20's but it will work, I've now done this swap 3 times. If you need any help just let me know.
Great job so far!
I will try and help where I can but I need some clarity on what's been done so far.
You said you swapped the EGR pipe. Do you mean the coolant crossover pipe? Your 13 should not have an EGR cooler. The 17 does and as such, the plumbing is different. If you are keeping you factory 13 setup you will need to move the coolant crossover pipe from the 13 block and put it on the 17 for the plumbing to be correct.
You said you swapped the alternator to match the new bracket.
The problem I ran into with that, is that the AC compressors are different between the two motors and the alternator bracket from the 17 will bolt to the motor, but will not work with the 13 compressor. Without that bracket you are going to be short one pulley.
On the 13 there is a threaded boss in the face of the timing cover (top center area) for one of the serpentine belt idler pulleys. I had to swap the timing covers from the 13 to the 17 block to maintain the threaded boss for the serpentine belt idler pulley. I posted about this issue somewhere else but not sure where to find that.
Also, depending on the type of failure your original motor had the level of cleaning that timing cover needs will vary. The oil pump is built into the timing cover on the FB20 and Subaru says it's "not serviceable" meaning you have to buy a $500 timing cover if you need an oil pump replacement due to metal contamination. I call BS on that, and have successfully disassembled, cleaned and reused or replaced the "non serviceable" oil pump built into the timing cover. (more on that if you need it)
As for the coils. Yes, the coils and the valve covers are different. The actual spark plug tubes are the same length. I have done both methods you mentioned above.
My preference is actually to cut the harness and splice in the connectors for the 15+ coils. Because it's such a common issue I always do front timing cover and cam carrier reseals on these swaps. I could easily just swap the valve covers at that time and use the original coils.
For me, the reason I don't do that is that I have a personal abundance of the 15+ coils in my spare parts bin. The 15+ coils are much more widely used between many different models and they're actually cheaper to buy new that the 13-14 coils. So for me I just prefer to swap the connectors. That is of course assuming your 15+ motor comes with an intact harness on it.
As for the TGV. As long as you aren't sticking something down there and prying on the valves or taking the mechanical end off you do not have to do any calibration to them. Many times I have seen those codes after a swap and you'll find the connector is not fully clipped. Those TGV connectors have a pretty thick weather pack in there and they need a good press to get them to fully click.
I was helping another person who had the cam sensor codes after this swap. They had swapped over cam sensors, cam phasers and some other things from their motor. I would strongly suggest you do not remove or swap the cam sensors or phasers from your original motor for this swap. The cam reluctor wheels on the 13 vs the 17 are different but they read the same way and are plug n play.
Hope any, some or all of this helps you with your swap. Let me know how it goes!
I will try and help where I can but I need some clarity on what's been done so far.
You said you swapped the EGR pipe. Do you mean the coolant crossover pipe? Your 13 should not have an EGR cooler. The 17 does and as such, the plumbing is different. If you are keeping you factory 13 setup you will need to move the coolant crossover pipe from the 13 block and put it on the 17 for the plumbing to be correct.
You said you swapped the alternator to match the new bracket.
The problem I ran into with that, is that the AC compressors are different between the two motors and the alternator bracket from the 17 will bolt to the motor, but will not work with the 13 compressor. Without that bracket you are going to be short one pulley.
On the 13 there is a threaded boss in the face of the timing cover (top center area) for one of the serpentine belt idler pulleys. I had to swap the timing covers from the 13 to the 17 block to maintain the threaded boss for the serpentine belt idler pulley. I posted about this issue somewhere else but not sure where to find that.
Also, depending on the type of failure your original motor had the level of cleaning that timing cover needs will vary. The oil pump is built into the timing cover on the FB20 and Subaru says it's "not serviceable" meaning you have to buy a $500 timing cover if you need an oil pump replacement due to metal contamination. I call BS on that, and have successfully disassembled, cleaned and reused or replaced the "non serviceable" oil pump built into the timing cover. (more on that if you need it)
As for the coils. Yes, the coils and the valve covers are different. The actual spark plug tubes are the same length. I have done both methods you mentioned above.
My preference is actually to cut the harness and splice in the connectors for the 15+ coils. Because it's such a common issue I always do front timing cover and cam carrier reseals on these swaps. I could easily just swap the valve covers at that time and use the original coils.
For me, the reason I don't do that is that I have a personal abundance of the 15+ coils in my spare parts bin. The 15+ coils are much more widely used between many different models and they're actually cheaper to buy new that the 13-14 coils. So for me I just prefer to swap the connectors. That is of course assuming your 15+ motor comes with an intact harness on it.
As for the TGV. As long as you aren't sticking something down there and prying on the valves or taking the mechanical end off you do not have to do any calibration to them. Many times I have seen those codes after a swap and you'll find the connector is not fully clipped. Those TGV connectors have a pretty thick weather pack in there and they need a good press to get them to fully click.
I was helping another person who had the cam sensor codes after this swap. They had swapped over cam sensors, cam phasers and some other things from their motor. I would strongly suggest you do not remove or swap the cam sensors or phasers from your original motor for this swap. The cam reluctor wheels on the 13 vs the 17 are different but they read the same way and are plug n play.
Hope any, some or all of this helps you with your swap. Let me know how it goes!
The XV coils will definitely work if you reuse the XV harness and valve covers. I realize the valve covers look similar but, I think you'll find they are going to be different between the two engines. The coil connector, mounting bolt boss and the cutout depth of the valve cover around the coils are different between 12 Impreza and 13 XV. Sounds like you intend on trying to use the complete Impreza motor including Impreza valve covers, intake, harness and coils. The only way that will work is if you are lucky enough that the harnesses are identical between the two motors.
Again, my recommendation in this instance would be to use the original XV intake, harness, valve covers and coils.
These components are really simple to change with the engine out of the car.
If you try it without swapping those things and the harness doesn't work, you'll be faced with a much more complex and time consuming set of decisions on how to proceed.
Also, I would suggest considering this: What if the 12 Impreza harness plugs in and the vehicle runs but you end up with some other erroneous codes or check engine light? Then you find yourself chasing some problem or replacing electrical parts trying to diagnose issue that may or may not be caused by the harness.
Although I am curious if the Impreza harness will actually work or not, I'd hate to see you waste a bunch of time and energy on a guess when doing it the other way will work with certianty.
Just my 2 cents.
Again, my recommendation in this instance would be to use the original XV intake, harness, valve covers and coils.
These components are really simple to change with the engine out of the car.
If you try it without swapping those things and the harness doesn't work, you'll be faced with a much more complex and time consuming set of decisions on how to proceed.
Also, I would suggest considering this: What if the 12 Impreza harness plugs in and the vehicle runs but you end up with some other erroneous codes or check engine light? Then you find yourself chasing some problem or replacing electrical parts trying to diagnose issue that may or may not be caused by the harness.
Although I am curious if the Impreza harness will actually work or not, I'd hate to see you waste a bunch of time and energy on a guess when doing it the other way will work with certianty.
Just my 2 cents.
Made an account just to chime in and hopefully help some people in the future who wants to do a 2015-2017 engine in a 2012-2014 car. I own a repair shop in Salt Lake City Utah and just completed the swap for a customer. here’s the notable things I had to change to make it work.
crank sensor at rear and associated mounting bracket on block as well as the flywheel/trigger wheel in the back of the engine. Not sure I’d trigger wheel was needed but didn’t feel like risking it and having to drop trans again to swap.
complete wiring harness and ignition coils from the 2013 car.
coolant crossover pipe on top of engine and associated coolant hoses as well as EGR pipe from the 2013.
All accessories EG alternator ac idlers etc, like mentioned above whole setup is different and timing cover On 2012-14 has a Threaded part on it for an extra idler the newer cars don’t have.
timing cover, for the reason mentioned above and depending on mileage of motor would be a good idea to reseal anyway
CAM PHASER TRIGGER WHEELS!!!
I saw it was mentioned above that the cam sensors would read the newer style trigger wheels which does seem to be the case but on my swap I had codes P0011 and p0021 for intake camshaft timing over advanced.
I was looking at the data on my scanner and it was reading all 4 sensors with the newer trigger wheels but for some reason thought timing was off. I ended up pulling the timing cover again after the new motor was in the swapping the older style cam phase trigger wheels on all 4 cams and codes are now gone!! If it was me I would not risk it on this swap and just swap the cam phase wheels from the get go and save the headache. It’s just 3 12mm bolts on each cam and a retaining clip to get them off.
overall pretty straight forward and the cam phaser issue is all I ran into.
if anyone in the salt lake area needs the swap done reach out to this account and I can give you my info, you would be around 1500-2000 in labor+ an engine to do this swap at my shop.
crank sensor at rear and associated mounting bracket on block as well as the flywheel/trigger wheel in the back of the engine. Not sure I’d trigger wheel was needed but didn’t feel like risking it and having to drop trans again to swap.
complete wiring harness and ignition coils from the 2013 car.
coolant crossover pipe on top of engine and associated coolant hoses as well as EGR pipe from the 2013.
All accessories EG alternator ac idlers etc, like mentioned above whole setup is different and timing cover On 2012-14 has a Threaded part on it for an extra idler the newer cars don’t have.
timing cover, for the reason mentioned above and depending on mileage of motor would be a good idea to reseal anyway
CAM PHASER TRIGGER WHEELS!!!
I saw it was mentioned above that the cam sensors would read the newer style trigger wheels which does seem to be the case but on my swap I had codes P0011 and p0021 for intake camshaft timing over advanced.
I was looking at the data on my scanner and it was reading all 4 sensors with the newer trigger wheels but for some reason thought timing was off. I ended up pulling the timing cover again after the new motor was in the swapping the older style cam phase trigger wheels on all 4 cams and codes are now gone!! If it was me I would not risk it on this swap and just swap the cam phase wheels from the get go and save the headache. It’s just 3 12mm bolts on each cam and a retaining clip to get them off.
overall pretty straight forward and the cam phaser issue is all I ran into.
if anyone in the salt lake area needs the swap done reach out to this account and I can give you my info, you would be around 1500-2000 in labor+ an engine to do this swap at my shop.
I completed a 2017 swap into a 2013 Crosstrek with the following modifications:
1. Coil connectors: Instead of changing swapping the valve covers, I changed the coil connectors to match the updated coil design. I ordered the connectors from:
Ignition Coil Plug E
2. Crank sensor: Swapped the crank sensor and mounting bracket and trigger wheel
3. Drive Belt: I used the serpentine/drive belt setup original to the 2017 engine and was able to use the AC compressor from the 2013. However, I had to use the 2015+ newer style alternator and lengthen the charging cable.
4. Coolant crossover pipe and EGR pipe from the 2013.
5. Wiring harness: used the complete wiring harness from the 2013.
Issues outstanding:
I have put 2000 miles on the car thus far with no codes or issues and smooth idle. However, I feel a hesitation on acceleration that I can’t seem to track down. Feels like the car has asthma for lack of a better way to describe it. No misfire, but throttle feels forced and it’s almost like "less is more" when it comes throttle. It’s mostly noticeable between 1500-3500 rpm. It was surprisingly agile before the swap but with a nice knock and rattle of course. Has anyone else been grappling with that issue?
1. Coil connectors: Instead of changing swapping the valve covers, I changed the coil connectors to match the updated coil design. I ordered the connectors from:
Ignition Coil Plug E
2. Crank sensor: Swapped the crank sensor and mounting bracket and trigger wheel
3. Drive Belt: I used the serpentine/drive belt setup original to the 2017 engine and was able to use the AC compressor from the 2013. However, I had to use the 2015+ newer style alternator and lengthen the charging cable.
4. Coolant crossover pipe and EGR pipe from the 2013.
5. Wiring harness: used the complete wiring harness from the 2013.
Issues outstanding:
I have put 2000 miles on the car thus far with no codes or issues and smooth idle. However, I feel a hesitation on acceleration that I can’t seem to track down. Feels like the car has asthma for lack of a better way to describe it. No misfire, but throttle feels forced and it’s almost like "less is more" when it comes throttle. It’s mostly noticeable between 1500-3500 rpm. It was surprisingly agile before the swap but with a nice knock and rattle of course. Has anyone else been grappling with that issue?
Swapped completed,kept original harness from 13 my. You will need to Swapped relactor wheels from cam phasers and front cover as well, keep original cross pipe due to different design for EGR valve set up. You don't have to swap coils. Only cross pipe,crank sensor and bracket,reactor wheels from phasers,front cover.
I unplugged it and still runs rough , I did forget to mention my motor is from a 2015 crostrek going into a 2013 Impreza , so far I swapped the crank sensor , bracket and plate along with the harness , it runs but is definitely miss firing but my scan tool isn’t picking it up , the intake was getting really hot to the rough so didn’t wanna run it long , I’m gonna swap the crossover pipe and go from there, it does seem like to 2013 Impreza coil packs mount correctly but are the out puts different or anything? Was hoping to do a simple swap haha the junk yard said this motor would slap right in but unfortunately not the case - I wanna make this motor work tho due to being more reliable I hear the 2013 Imprezas burn oil
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