Hi all doing 2015 xv to 2012 impreza swap.

how do you delete the bottom engine port present on the 2015 xv 2.0 when moving over egr pipe from old engine?

 

Hi Mad mark,
First, 13 and newer USDM FB20 engines all had oil level sensors in the upper oil pan. This engine was actually first used sometime around 2010 in JDM applications. So I think it's more likely your JDM engine is older, not newer than your car.
That said, my assumption is that you've already installed the engine into the car when you noticed this difference.
If not, I would suggest you swap the upper oil pan from your old motor onto the JDM motor. These engines are notorious for oil leaks anywhere there is sealant used.....which is in A LOT of places on these engines.
To be more specific, Cam carriers, timing cover, upper and lower oil pans are all known to leak through the sealant on these motors anywhere from 30-60k miles.
When I do these swaps I always reseal all of the above mentioned components on the JDM motor before installing it in the car.

If you've already installed the motor and aren't wanting to take it back out to swap the pans the only real options I see would be to rig the sensor to stay in the full position, plug in the sensor, and zip tie it up to the block somewhere. This is a pretty hokey work around but it should work.

I personally have never attempted to trick the ECM for this issue.
However, looking at the wiring diagram for that sensor, it looks like the sensor is a normally open circuit which closes when the oil level is full. In theory, that would mean one could ground that sensor wire to the block which would trick the ECM into thinking the oil is full all the time.

Again, I personally have not tried that and if you have not already installed that engine into the car I would recommend just swapping the upper oil pan from your old motor.

Let me know.

 

Hi Mad mark,
First, 13 and newer USDM FB20 engines all had oil level sensors in the upper oil pan. This engine was actually first used sometime around 2010 in JDM applications. So I think it's more likely your JDM engine is older, not newer than your car.
That said, my assumption is that you've already installed the engine into the car when you noticed this difference.
If not, I would suggest you swap the upper oil pan from your old motor onto the JDM motor. These engines are notorious for oil leaks anywhere there is sealant used.....which is in A LOT of places on these engines.
To be more specific, Cam carriers, timing cover, upper and lower oil pans are all known to leak through the sealant on these motors anywhere from 30-60k miles.
When I do these swaps I always reseal all of the above mentioned components on the JDM motor before installing it in the car.

If you've already installed the motor and aren't wanting to take it back out to swap the pans the only real options I see would be to rig the sensor to stay in the full position, plug in the sensor, and zip tie it up to the block somewhere. This is a pretty hokey work around but it should work.

I personally have never attempted to trick the ECM for this issue.
However, looking at the wiring diagram for that sensor, it looks like the sensor is a normally open circuit which closes when the oil level is full. In theory, that would mean one could ground that sensor wire to the block which would trick the ECM into thinking the oil is full all the time.

Again, I personally have not tried that and if you have not already installed that engine into the car I would recommend just swapping the upper oil pan from your old motor.

Let me know.

I don't have the engine in the car yet. I thought I was about done. then reading more of this forum I realized I still need to swap cam position gears. So it does make the most sense to swap upper pans. I'm so appreciative of the knowledge some of you have and the willingness for us to pick your brains on what seems like silly questions after the fact. Thanks for your quick response really helps more than I can say.

 

Hey Jawajunk i'm working on a 15 xv crosstrek 2.0i premium. I got a jdm motor replacement. Figure it's a 16 or newer since it doesn't have the oil level sensor hole it's cast but not functional. Is there a way to trick the ecu to make it think it is working and full? Typed this and more out and the adds on this site made my page reset and wiped my text out.

 

Yes,I would swap a crossover pipe first,those guys just want sell stuff. I used 13my intake as well. I took apart engine completely to the short block,and then changed every gaskets and seals when assembled,just because they said it was running, doesn't mean it was running right.

 

I didn’t do a tear down before hand but leak down was good along with the compression so hopefully it’s not the motor itself , I’ll swap everything and hope for the best haha thank you

 

I unplugged it and still runs rough , I did forget to mention my motor is from a 2015 crostrek going into a 2013 Impreza , so far I swapped the crank sensor , bracket and plate along with the harness , it runs but is definitely miss firing but my scan tool isn’t picking it up , the intake was getting really hot to the rough so didn’t wanna run it long , I’m gonna swap the crossover pipe and go from there, it does seem like to 2013 Impreza coil packs mount correctly but are the out puts different or anything? Was hoping to do a simple swap haha the junk yard said this motor would slap right in but unfortunately not the case - I wanna make this motor work tho due to being more reliable I hear the 2013 Imprezas burn oil

 

Try to unplug egr and see what happens,I kept all 13my coils and spark plugs

 

It runs like crap haven’t looked to much into it yet , but unsure if it’s due to the egr being different or the spark plug coils

 

No,if it fits,you are done. I extended alternator wire too,that's why I suggested to reuse original front cover. If EGR monitor is set,and you don't have any Codes and problems,I wouldn't be worried.

 

Swapped completed,kept original harness from 13 my. You will need to Swapped relactor wheels from cam phasers and front cover as well, keep original cross pipe due to different design for EGR valve set up. You don't have to swap coils. Only cross pipe,crank sensor and bracket,reactor wheels from phasers,front cover.

 

Hey man I see you did a motor swap with a 2017 motor to your 13- I am swapping a 2015 crostrek motor into my 2013 Impreza , I have the motor in and it is running like **** , I did swap the crank sensor , bracket and plate , and harness and that’s it , everything else seems to built up just fine , is there a reason to swap the cross over pipe when the egr fits ? And the coils also seem to fit aswell , I did have to extend the alternator harness tho

 

Hey what’s the difference in the crossover pipes why do they need to be changed ? I’m in the middle of this swap and didn’t do any research and just now realizing I need to swap my coils and the cross over pipe

 

Along with a crank sensor and bracket,do I need to swap relactor wheel from newer engine or keep the original one? After a swap, I have cam-crank correlation codes. Thank you

 

I completed a 2017 swap into a 2013 Crosstrek with the following modifications:

1. Coil connectors: Instead of changing swapping the valve covers, I changed the coil connectors to match the updated coil design. I ordered the connectors from:
Ignition Coil Plug E
2. Crank sensor: Swapped the crank sensor and mounting bracket and trigger wheel
3. Drive Belt: I used the serpentine/drive belt setup original to the 2017 engine and was able to use the AC compressor from the 2013. However, I had to use the 2015+ newer style alternator and lengthen the charging cable.
4. Coolant crossover pipe and EGR pipe from the 2013.
5. Wiring harness: used the complete wiring harness from the 2013.

Issues outstanding:
I have put 2000 miles on the car thus far with no codes or issues and smooth idle. However, I feel a hesitation on acceleration that I can’t seem to track down. Feels like the car has asthma for lack of a better way to describe it. No misfire, but throttle feels forced and it’s almost like "less is more" when it comes throttle. It’s mostly noticeable between 1500-3500 rpm. It was surprisingly agile before the swap but with a nice knock and rattle of course. Has anyone else been grappling with that issue?

 

Made an account just to chime in and hopefully help some people in the future who wants to do a 2015-2017 engine in a 2012-2014 car. I own a repair shop in Salt Lake City Utah and just completed the swap for a customer. here’s the notable things I had to change to make it work.

crank sensor at rear and associated mounting bracket on block as well as the flywheel/trigger wheel in the back of the engine. Not sure I’d trigger wheel was needed but didn’t feel like risking it and having to drop trans again to swap.

complete wiring harness and ignition coils from the 2013 car.

coolant crossover pipe on top of engine and associated coolant hoses as well as EGR pipe from the 2013.

All accessories EG alternator ac idlers etc, like mentioned above whole setup is different and timing cover On 2012-14 has a Threaded part on it for an extra idler the newer cars don’t have.

timing cover, for the reason mentioned above and depending on mileage of motor would be a good idea to reseal anyway

CAM PHASER TRIGGER WHEELS!!!
I saw it was mentioned above that the cam sensors would read the newer style trigger wheels which does seem to be the case but on my swap I had codes P0011 and p0021 for intake camshaft timing over advanced.
I was looking at the data on my scanner and it was reading all 4 sensors with the newer trigger wheels but for some reason thought timing was off. I ended up pulling the timing cover again after the new motor was in the swapping the older style cam phase trigger wheels on all 4 cams and codes are now gone!! If it was me I would not risk it on this swap and just swap the cam phase wheels from the get go and save the headache. It’s just 3 12mm bolts on each cam and a retaining clip to get them off.

overall pretty straight forward and the cam phaser issue is all I ran into.
if anyone in the salt lake area needs the swap done reach out to this account and I can give you my info, you would be around 1500-2000 in labor+ an engine to do this swap at my shop.

 

I'm going to be putting a 2016 FB20 into a 2014. Do you typically change the guides and tensioners when you have the timing chain cover off? I've replaced guides and tensioners on a 2014 Impreza in the past (because they were noisy). I'm just wondering what you normally see out of the guides and tensioners. Should I order them and change them out or would it be typical to keep running everything in the used motor? It has 120,000 miles on it.

Also, where is the best place to get all the o-rings for the timing chain cover? Is there like a kit sold somewhere? Last time I went to the dealer for them.

 

The XV coils will definitely work if you reuse the XV harness and valve covers. I realize the valve covers look similar but, I think you'll find they are going to be different between the two engines. The coil connector, mounting bolt boss and the cutout depth of the valve cover around the coils are different between 12 Impreza and 13 XV. Sounds like you intend on trying to use the complete Impreza motor including Impreza valve covers, intake, harness and coils. The only way that will work is if you are lucky enough that the harnesses are identical between the two motors.
Again, my recommendation in this instance would be to use the original XV intake, harness, valve covers and coils.
These components are really simple to change with the engine out of the car.
If you try it without swapping those things and the harness doesn't work, you'll be faced with a much more complex and time consuming set of decisions on how to proceed.
Also, I would suggest considering this: What if the 12 Impreza harness plugs in and the vehicle runs but you end up with some other erroneous codes or check engine light? Then you find yourself chasing some problem or replacing electrical parts trying to diagnose issue that may or may not be caused by the harness.
Although I am curious if the Impreza harness will actually work or not, I'd hate to see you waste a bunch of time and energy on a guess when doing it the other way will work with certianty.
Just my 2 cents.

 

So just wanted to return with my findings.
Motor is in, running smooth as silk. Differences between the 2 motors is minimal. Intake is 110 percent identical, but I removed mine and replaced it with the xv one anyway.
Replacing the valve covers worked well for putting xv coils on, the wiring harness is basically identical besides the coil connectors, and 2 sensors, one in the coolant crossover other on front of engine, both i believe are temp sensors. They bolt right into the Impreza engine so all is good there. Other than that it was a straight swap.

I want to sincerely thank you for your help on this, as I thought it was a lost cause. This was also my first ever motor swap, motor was out and everything swapped over, installed in 10 hours total with smoke breaks and eating and stuff. My wife is happy so I'm happy. Thank you again sir, can't explain how much I appreciate it.

 

The 12 Impreza FB20 is the same as the 13-14 Crosstrek motor. Crosstrek was introduced in 2013 and used basically 12 Impreza engine and drivetrain. Coils, cams, cam gears, and flywheel reluctor wheel should all be the same between those two engines.

 

That what I assumed as well, I posted to a Subaru mechanic group and said I had to change a bunch of stuff, so I've been nervous to try and install it. I can't find any discernable difference at all besides the coil packs. Even with the different style, do you think I could drop the engine in plug and play or should I swap harnesses. Sorry for the random insert here, I just am absolutely stumped and have spent over 30 hours just researching with absolutely 0 answers. Only answer I got was telling me I had to basically swap timing covers, all 4 cams, flywheel and reluctor wheel, harness, Intake etc..

 

Jawajunk, what do you know about putting a 2012 Impreza engine into a 2013 Crosstrek? Coming across different coils and was told the cam gears and the flywheel reluctor wheel and stuff would need to be changed to get it to work, do you have any information on this?

 

I also posted some stuff about this swap on Subaru XV forum website

 

I am just wondering if you've come across it and have any information to help? I am basically looking to sell this motor I just got but it only has 120k on the updated shortblock. I assume I could swap coil packs and the wiring harness but I'm not sure and the information just isn't out there.

 

Great job so far!
I will try and help where I can but I need some clarity on what's been done so far.
You said you swapped the EGR pipe. Do you mean the coolant crossover pipe? Your 13 should not have an EGR cooler. The 17 does and as such, the plumbing is different. If you are keeping you factory 13 setup you will need to move the coolant crossover pipe from the 13 block and put it on the 17 for the plumbing to be correct.
You said you swapped the alternator to match the new bracket.
The problem I ran into with that, is that the AC compressors are different between the two motors and the alternator bracket from the 17 will bolt to the motor, but will not work with the 13 compressor. Without that bracket you are going to be short one pulley.
On the 13 there is a threaded boss in the face of the timing cover (top center area) for one of the serpentine belt idler pulleys. I had to swap the timing covers from the 13 to the 17 block to maintain the threaded boss for the serpentine belt idler pulley. I posted about this issue somewhere else but not sure where to find that.
Also, depending on the type of failure your original motor had the level of cleaning that timing cover needs will vary. The oil pump is built into the timing cover on the FB20 and Subaru says it's "not serviceable" meaning you have to buy a $500 timing cover if you need an oil pump replacement due to metal contamination. I call BS on that, and have successfully disassembled, cleaned and reused or replaced the "non serviceable" oil pump built into the timing cover. (more on that if you need it)

As for the coils. Yes, the coils and the valve covers are different. The actual spark plug tubes are the same length. I have done both methods you mentioned above.
My preference is actually to cut the harness and splice in the connectors for the 15+ coils. Because it's such a common issue I always do front timing cover and cam carrier reseals on these swaps. I could easily just swap the valve covers at that time and use the original coils.
For me, the reason I don't do that is that I have a personal abundance of the 15+ coils in my spare parts bin. The 15+ coils are much more widely used between many different models and they're actually cheaper to buy new that the 13-14 coils. So for me I just prefer to swap the connectors. That is of course assuming your 15+ motor comes with an intact harness on it.
As for the TGV. As long as you aren't sticking something down there and prying on the valves or taking the mechanical end off you do not have to do any calibration to them. Many times I have seen those codes after a swap and you'll find the connector is not fully clipped. Those TGV connectors have a pretty thick weather pack in there and they need a good press to get them to fully click.

I was helping another person who had the cam sensor codes after this swap. They had swapped over cam sensors, cam phasers and some other things from their motor. I would strongly suggest you do not remove or swap the cam sensors or phasers from your original motor for this swap. The cam reluctor wheels on the 13 vs the 17 are different but they read the same way and are plug n play.

Hope any, some or all of this helps you with your swap. Let me know how it goes!

 

I’m in the planning stages of a 17 FB20 cvt being swapped into a 13 XV manual. I am very curious about the solution to this crank sensor issue as well. Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks

 

I had to swap the crank position sensor holder (looked for a bracket but have to use "holder") as the one from this jdm engine was a 2 wire @ a 90 on sensor not a 3 wire straight that came with my 15 xv crosstrek. Broke the one from my old motor removing it off the inside back of the bell housing

 

Hello, new to fb20’s. I’m swapping a later fb20 into my daughter in laws’s 13 cross trek and stuck with a crank sensor issue. Original one is 2 wire connector and replacement engine is 3 wire. You can’t just swap them because the hole in the blocks are in slightly different locations and orientation. Is there a crank sensor from a different model that is 2 wire, the correct length and orientation?

 

The reply below may help if you haven't already solved your issue.

 

I just reread your original post and just noticed you said your VX is a 13. Your motor will definitely have that extra serpentine pulley. Look at your new motor when you get it. If it does not have the extra threaded boss in the timing cover I mentioned above you'll know it is a 15 and up FB20.

 

Water pump and thermostat are a very good idea. Considering the water pump on this engine is external and easily accessible, on mine I did not replace it. I did open the timing cover but not to replace the chain components, just to reseal the cover. Subaru fixed their head gasket problems with these new timing chain engines but unfortunately these engines have leaking issues of their own. There is a lot of silicone sealing these things together and that is a failure point. Common oil leaks are timing cover and cam carriers. The timing cover can be resealed in the vehicle (pain in the a**) but cam carriers can't. Since they both tend to leak I resealed it all before I installed the engine. I don't know if your car is auto or manual but the front pump seal housing on the auto CVT transmission is also silicone and a very common point of leaks. If you have an auto trans I would suggest resealing that too while the engine is out. Other things to look for.... look closely at the timing covers. On 13-14 motors there is an extra pulley for the serpentine belt, this pulley is located in the upper middle part of the engine and there is a threaded boss in the timing cover itself where it bolts on. 15 and up motors do not have this boss. Meaning, depending on what year you have and what car that JDM came out of you may need to swap the timing cover from your old engine. This difference is subtle but it would really suck to not notice it, install the engine and then realize you have a problem. Also, look closely at the crank sensor, it's connector and the mounting bracket that holds it. They are very different from 13-14 to 15 up. I also suggest looking at the EGR and trans cooler (if you have auto trans) These are both located on the back of the right side cylinder head. If something is different between the two let me know and I will help you address that.

 

Peakz, I really wanted to share and help others so I did a full write up on NASIOC.....wasted hours putting it together and they never posted it. When I asked about it they never replied. To make it worse, I wrote the whole thing on their platform and didn't save a copy for myself . So after submitting it, now it's totally gone. That write up I did was pretty long winded, covering everything I ran into with the swap from 13-14 to a 15 up motor, and how I overcame it blah, blah blah. Might be easier if you have questions about certain things to ask that and I can reply. I have worked for and on Subaru for over 20 years and done many Frankenroos over the years so hopefully I can help.

 

Put a 2012 legacy motor into a 2013 cross. It won't start. Shaped out cam sen. & the pcm.
Tried resting the system. Blah blah. On the OBD11. EVERTHING READS good except calibration I'd.
Any ideas at this point?
Didn't change the trans. Only the motor. Everything plugged up except the fly wheel. It was as to big off the crosstalk.
I noticed that the crankshaft sensors are different.
Is this the issue?

 

I put a 2015 Crosstrek engine into a 2014

 

Hey jawajunk, I'm getting ready to do an FB20 swap in my 2013 xv. Would love to pick your brain or see that write up if you have it!

 

Dave, yes with a few modifications it will work. I have recently done this swap. The car is running great and just clocked 1000 miles. Please reply if you would like a write up with pictures of exactly what I did