Will the 2.0 litre from a 2017 crosstrek be compatible with a 2014 crosstrek car, ecu and transmission?
Daves 14 crosstrek
Hi Mad mark,
First, 13 and newer USDM FB20 engines all had oil level sensors in the upper oil pan. This engine was actually first used sometime around 2010 in JDM applications. So I think it's more likely your JDM engine is older, not newer than your car.
That said, my assumption is that you've already installed the engine into the car when you noticed this difference.
If not, I would suggest you swap the upper oil pan from your old motor onto the JDM motor. These engines are notorious for oil leaks anywhere there is sealant used.....which is in A LOT of places on these engines.
To be more specific, Cam carriers, timing cover, upper and lower oil pans are all known to leak through the sealant on these motors anywhere from 30-60k miles.
When I do these swaps I always reseal all of the above mentioned components on the JDM motor before installing it in the car.
If you've already installed the motor and aren't wanting to take it back out to swap the pans the only real options I see would be to rig the sensor to stay in the full position, plug in the sensor, and zip tie it up to the block somewhere. This is a pretty hokey work around but it should work.
I personally have never attempted to trick the ECM for this issue.
However, looking at the wiring diagram for that sensor, it looks like the sensor is a normally open circuit which closes when the oil level is full. In theory, that would mean one could ground that sensor wire to the block which would trick the ECM into thinking the oil is full all the time.
Again, I personally have not tried that and if you have not already installed that engine into the car I would recommend just swapping the upper oil pan from your old motor.
Let me know.
First, 13 and newer USDM FB20 engines all had oil level sensors in the upper oil pan. This engine was actually first used sometime around 2010 in JDM applications. So I think it's more likely your JDM engine is older, not newer than your car.
That said, my assumption is that you've already installed the engine into the car when you noticed this difference.
If not, I would suggest you swap the upper oil pan from your old motor onto the JDM motor. These engines are notorious for oil leaks anywhere there is sealant used.....which is in A LOT of places on these engines.
To be more specific, Cam carriers, timing cover, upper and lower oil pans are all known to leak through the sealant on these motors anywhere from 30-60k miles.
When I do these swaps I always reseal all of the above mentioned components on the JDM motor before installing it in the car.
If you've already installed the motor and aren't wanting to take it back out to swap the pans the only real options I see would be to rig the sensor to stay in the full position, plug in the sensor, and zip tie it up to the block somewhere. This is a pretty hokey work around but it should work.
I personally have never attempted to trick the ECM for this issue.
However, looking at the wiring diagram for that sensor, it looks like the sensor is a normally open circuit which closes when the oil level is full. In theory, that would mean one could ground that sensor wire to the block which would trick the ECM into thinking the oil is full all the time.
Again, I personally have not tried that and if you have not already installed that engine into the car I would recommend just swapping the upper oil pan from your old motor.
Let me know.
The XV coils will definitely work if you reuse the XV harness and valve covers. I realize the valve covers look similar but, I think you'll find they are going to be different between the two engines. The coil connector, mounting bolt boss and the cutout depth of the valve cover around the coils are different between 12 Impreza and 13 XV. Sounds like you intend on trying to use the complete Impreza motor including Impreza valve covers, intake, harness and coils. The only way that will work is if you are lucky enough that the harnesses are identical between the two motors.
Again, my recommendation in this instance would be to use the original XV intake, harness, valve covers and coils.
These components are really simple to change with the engine out of the car.
If you try it without swapping those things and the harness doesn't work, you'll be faced with a much more complex and time consuming set of decisions on how to proceed.
Also, I would suggest considering this: What if the 12 Impreza harness plugs in and the vehicle runs but you end up with some other erroneous codes or check engine light? Then you find yourself chasing some problem or replacing electrical parts trying to diagnose issue that may or may not be caused by the harness.
Although I am curious if the Impreza harness will actually work or not, I'd hate to see you waste a bunch of time and energy on a guess when doing it the other way will work with certianty.
Just my 2 cents.
Again, my recommendation in this instance would be to use the original XV intake, harness, valve covers and coils.
These components are really simple to change with the engine out of the car.
If you try it without swapping those things and the harness doesn't work, you'll be faced with a much more complex and time consuming set of decisions on how to proceed.
Also, I would suggest considering this: What if the 12 Impreza harness plugs in and the vehicle runs but you end up with some other erroneous codes or check engine light? Then you find yourself chasing some problem or replacing electrical parts trying to diagnose issue that may or may not be caused by the harness.
Although I am curious if the Impreza harness will actually work or not, I'd hate to see you waste a bunch of time and energy on a guess when doing it the other way will work with certianty.
Just my 2 cents.
Glad you didn't junk it either! Sorry you spent 30 hours researching before we met. That motor will work in your XV
Unfortunately I can't answer the wiring harness question. I have never closely examined or traced the wires on the actual harness itself. I realize the large main connector looks the same but I don't know about the pinouts between those two car matching inside the connector. I have always reused the harness from the existing vehicle so that's always going to be my recommendation. At least you know that one worked before. If you do decide to use the Impreza harness I'm curious to know if it does work.
So, you have a complete FB20 donor motor from a 12 Impreza and are wanting to put it into a 2013 Crosstrek?
I assume the current motor in the XV is also present and complete?
I misspoke in my last message about the coils being the same on 12 Impreza and 13 XV. There was a change made to the coils for Impreza in 13.
So you are correct, the coils would need to be swapped.
I would also move the intake manifold from the XV and use it on the Impreza motor. The engine wiring harness is literally right there and a simple swap with the intake removed.
Reuse your XV intake, and harness.
Because the valve covers are shaped differently for the two different coils you will need to either need to cut the XV harness and splice the coil connectors from the Impreza motor harness or, swap the valve covers from the old XV motor to make the correct coils fit the Impreza motor.
Other than that, the internals of the engine are the same. No cam swaps, timing cover swaps, etc needed.
Great job so far!
I will try and help where I can but I need some clarity on what's been done so far.
You said you swapped the EGR pipe. Do you mean the coolant crossover pipe? Your 13 should not have an EGR cooler. The 17 does and as such, the plumbing is different. If you are keeping you factory 13 setup you will need to move the coolant crossover pipe from the 13 block and put it on the 17 for the plumbing to be correct.
You said you swapped the alternator to match the new bracket.
The problem I ran into with that, is that the AC compressors are different between the two motors and the alternator bracket from the 17 will bolt to the motor, but will not work with the 13 compressor. Without that bracket you are going to be short one pulley.
On the 13 there is a threaded boss in the face of the timing cover (top center area) for one of the serpentine belt idler pulleys. I had to swap the timing covers from the 13 to the 17 block to maintain the threaded boss for the serpentine belt idler pulley. I posted about this issue somewhere else but not sure where to find that.
Also, depending on the type of failure your original motor had the level of cleaning that timing cover needs will vary. The oil pump is built into the timing cover on the FB20 and Subaru says it's "not serviceable" meaning you have to buy a $500 timing cover if you need an oil pump replacement due to metal contamination. I call BS on that, and have successfully disassembled, cleaned and reused or replaced the "non serviceable" oil pump built into the timing cover. (more on that if you need it)
As for the coils. Yes, the coils and the valve covers are different. The actual spark plug tubes are the same length. I have done both methods you mentioned above.
My preference is actually to cut the harness and splice in the connectors for the 15+ coils. Because it's such a common issue I always do front timing cover and cam carrier reseals on these swaps. I could easily just swap the valve covers at that time and use the original coils.
For me, the reason I don't do that is that I have a personal abundance of the 15+ coils in my spare parts bin. The 15+ coils are much more widely used between many different models and they're actually cheaper to buy new that the 13-14 coils. So for me I just prefer to swap the connectors. That is of course assuming your 15+ motor comes with an intact harness on it.
As for the TGV. As long as you aren't sticking something down there and prying on the valves or taking the mechanical end off you do not have to do any calibration to them. Many times I have seen those codes after a swap and you'll find the connector is not fully clipped. Those TGV connectors have a pretty thick weather pack in there and they need a good press to get them to fully click.
I was helping another person who had the cam sensor codes after this swap. They had swapped over cam sensors, cam phasers and some other things from their motor. I would strongly suggest you do not remove or swap the cam sensors or phasers from your original motor for this swap. The cam reluctor wheels on the 13 vs the 17 are different but they read the same way and are plug n play.
Hope any, some or all of this helps you with your swap. Let me know how it goes!
I will try and help where I can but I need some clarity on what's been done so far.
You said you swapped the EGR pipe. Do you mean the coolant crossover pipe? Your 13 should not have an EGR cooler. The 17 does and as such, the plumbing is different. If you are keeping you factory 13 setup you will need to move the coolant crossover pipe from the 13 block and put it on the 17 for the plumbing to be correct.
You said you swapped the alternator to match the new bracket.
The problem I ran into with that, is that the AC compressors are different between the two motors and the alternator bracket from the 17 will bolt to the motor, but will not work with the 13 compressor. Without that bracket you are going to be short one pulley.
On the 13 there is a threaded boss in the face of the timing cover (top center area) for one of the serpentine belt idler pulleys. I had to swap the timing covers from the 13 to the 17 block to maintain the threaded boss for the serpentine belt idler pulley. I posted about this issue somewhere else but not sure where to find that.
Also, depending on the type of failure your original motor had the level of cleaning that timing cover needs will vary. The oil pump is built into the timing cover on the FB20 and Subaru says it's "not serviceable" meaning you have to buy a $500 timing cover if you need an oil pump replacement due to metal contamination. I call BS on that, and have successfully disassembled, cleaned and reused or replaced the "non serviceable" oil pump built into the timing cover. (more on that if you need it)
As for the coils. Yes, the coils and the valve covers are different. The actual spark plug tubes are the same length. I have done both methods you mentioned above.
My preference is actually to cut the harness and splice in the connectors for the 15+ coils. Because it's such a common issue I always do front timing cover and cam carrier reseals on these swaps. I could easily just swap the valve covers at that time and use the original coils.
For me, the reason I don't do that is that I have a personal abundance of the 15+ coils in my spare parts bin. The 15+ coils are much more widely used between many different models and they're actually cheaper to buy new that the 13-14 coils. So for me I just prefer to swap the connectors. That is of course assuming your 15+ motor comes with an intact harness on it.
As for the TGV. As long as you aren't sticking something down there and prying on the valves or taking the mechanical end off you do not have to do any calibration to them. Many times I have seen those codes after a swap and you'll find the connector is not fully clipped. Those TGV connectors have a pretty thick weather pack in there and they need a good press to get them to fully click.
I was helping another person who had the cam sensor codes after this swap. They had swapped over cam sensors, cam phasers and some other things from their motor. I would strongly suggest you do not remove or swap the cam sensors or phasers from your original motor for this swap. The cam reluctor wheels on the 13 vs the 17 are different but they read the same way and are plug n play.
Hope any, some or all of this helps you with your swap. Let me know how it goes!
The reply below may help if you haven't already solved your issue.
@Redlineyourtoy.
Have you made any progress with your swap? The crank sensor issue basically requires you to remove the sensor and the mounting plate that holds the sensor in. This sensor and plate is different on 13-14 XV compared to 15 and up. From the front side of the engine it looks like the mount for crank sensor is part of the block. The plate is attached on the backside of the engine (under flexplate/flywheel and reluctor ring. If you remove those components you will see 2 10mm bolts. After removing the bolts you will see below those bolts there are 2 small guide pins that are really tight. The first time I removed one I tried prying it gently from the flywheel side and one of those little ears snapped off. The second, and all subsequent times I have removed them I used a small punch and hammer and gently tapped it off through the hole on the front side of the motor. Making sure to hit it in the corners near where the guide pins are located. Gently tapping back and forth between each pin until it pops off. I attached a picture for you to help explain. (picture is an FB25 sensor but the process is the same) There are some other differences between the 13 and 17 FB20's but it will work, I've now done this swap 3 times. If you need any help just let me know.
d2,
You are correct, there are differences in the crank sensors and the mounting. Could you post a picture? I think I know what the issue is and how to help you get around it but I'd like to see the picture first.
I just reread your original post and just noticed you said your VX is a 13. Your motor will definitely have that extra serpentine pulley. Look at your new motor when you get it. If it does not have the extra threaded boss in the timing cover I mentioned above you'll know it is a 15 and up FB20.
Water pump and thermostat are a very good idea. Considering the water pump on this engine is external and easily accessible, on mine I did not replace it. I did open the timing cover but not to replace the chain components, just to reseal the cover. Subaru fixed their head gasket problems with these new timing chain engines but unfortunately these engines have leaking issues of their own. There is a lot of silicone sealing these things together and that is a failure point. Common oil leaks are timing cover and cam carriers. The timing cover can be resealed in the vehicle (pain in the a**) but cam carriers can't. Since they both tend to leak I resealed it all before I installed the engine. I don't know if your car is auto or manual but the front pump seal housing on the auto CVT transmission is also silicone and a very common point of leaks. If you have an auto trans I would suggest resealing that too while the engine is out. Other things to look for.... look closely at the timing covers. On 13-14 motors there is an extra pulley for the serpentine belt, this pulley is located in the upper middle part of the engine and there is a threaded boss in the timing cover itself where it bolts on. 15 and up motors do not have this boss. Meaning, depending on what year you have and what car that JDM came out of you may need to swap the timing cover from your old engine. This difference is subtle but it would really suck to not notice it, install the engine and then realize you have a problem. Also, look closely at the crank sensor, it's connector and the mounting bracket that holds it. They are very different from 13-14 to 15 up. I also suggest looking at the EGR and trans cooler (if you have auto trans) These are both located on the back of the right side cylinder head. If something is different between the two let me know and I will help you address that.
Peakz, I really wanted to share and help others so I did a full write up on NASIOC.....wasted hours putting it together and they never posted it. When I asked about it they never replied. To make it worse, I wrote the whole thing on their platform and didn't save a copy for myself . So after submitting it, now it's totally gone. That write up I did was pretty long winded, covering everything I ran into with the swap from 13-14 to a 15 up motor, and how I overcame it blah, blah blah. Might be easier if you have questions about certain things to ask that and I can reply. I have worked for and on Subaru for over 20 years and done many Frankenroos over the years so hopefully I can help.
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