[1autorehab]

Hey what’s the difference in the crossover pipes why do they need to be changed ? I’m in the middle of this swap and didn’t do any research and just now realizing I need to swap my coils and the cross over pipe

 

[zelbmenb]

Swapped completed,kept original harness from 13 my. You will need to Swapped relactor wheels from cam phasers and front cover as well, keep original cross pipe due to different design for EGR valve set up. You don't have to swap coils. Only cross pipe,crank sensor and bracket,reactor wheels from phasers,front cover.

 

[1autorehab]

Swapped completed,kept original harness from 13 my. You will need to Swapped relactor wheels from cam phasers and front cover as well, keep original cross pipe due to different design for EGR valve set up. You don't have to swap coils. Only cross pipe,crank sensor and bracket,reactor wheels from phasers,front cover.

Hey man I see you did a motor swap with a 2017 motor to your 13- I am swapping a 2015 crostrek motor into my 2013 Impreza , I have the motor in and it is running like **** , I did swap the crank sensor , bracket and plate , and harness and that’s it , everything else seems to built up just fine , is there a reason to swap the cross over pipe when the egr fits ? And the coils also seem to fit aswell , I did have to extend the alternator harness tho

 

[zelbmenb]

No,if it fits,you are done. I extended alternator wire too,that's why I suggested to reuse original front cover. If EGR monitor is set,and you don't have any Codes and problems,I wouldn't be worried.

 

[1autorehab]

It runs like crap haven’t looked to much into it yet , but unsure if it’s due to the egr being different or the spark plug coils

 

[zelbmenb]

Try to unplug egr and see what happens,I kept all 13my coils and spark plugs

 

[1autorehab]

I unplugged it and still runs rough , I did forget to mention my motor is from a 2015 crostrek going into a 2013 Impreza , so far I swapped the crank sensor , bracket and plate along with the harness , it runs but is definitely miss firing but my scan tool isn’t picking it up , the intake was getting really hot to the rough so didn’t wanna run it long , I’m gonna swap the crossover pipe and go from there, it does seem like to 2013 Impreza coil packs mount correctly but are the out puts different or anything? Was hoping to do a simple swap haha the junk yard said this motor would slap right in but unfortunately not the case - I wanna make this motor work tho due to being more reliable I hear the 2013 Imprezas burn oil

 

[zelbmenb]

Yes,I would swap a crossover pipe first,those guys just want sell stuff. I used 13my intake as well. I took apart engine completely to the short block,and then changed every gaskets and seals when assembled,just because they said it was running, doesn't mean it was running right.

 

[1autorehab]

Yes,I would swap a crossover pipe first,those guys just want sell stuff. I used 13my intake as well. I took apart engine completely to the short block,and then changed every gaskets and seals when assembled,just because they said it was running, doesn't mean it was running right.

I didn’t do a tear down before hand but leak down was good along with the compression so hopefully it’s not the motor itself , I’ll swap everything and hope for the best haha thank you

 

[ecut1]

Made an account just to chime in and hopefully help some people in the future who wants to do a 2015-2017 engine in a 2012-2014 car. I own a repair shop in Salt Lake City Utah and just completed the swap for a customer. here’s the notable things I had to change to make it work.

crank sensor at rear and associated mounting bracket on block as well as the flywheel/trigger wheel in the back of the engine. Not sure I’d trigger wheel was needed but didn’t feel like risking it and having to drop trans again to swap.

complete wiring harness and ignition coils from the 2013 car.

coolant crossover pipe on top of engine and associated coolant hoses as well as EGR pipe from the 2013.

All accessories EG alternator ac idlers etc, like mentioned above whole setup is different and timing cover On 2012-14 has a Threaded part on it for an extra idler the newer cars don’t have.

timing cover, for the reason mentioned above and depending on mileage of motor would be a good idea to reseal anyway

CAM PHASER TRIGGER WHEELS!!!
I saw it was mentioned above that the cam sensors would read the newer style trigger wheels which does seem to be the case but on my swap I had codes P0011 and p0021 for intake camshaft timing over advanced.
I was looking at the data on my scanner and it was reading all 4 sensors with the newer trigger wheels but for some reason thought timing was off. I ended up pulling the timing cover again after the new motor was in the swapping the older style cam phase trigger wheels on all 4 cams and codes are now gone!! If it was me I would not risk it on this swap and just swap the cam phase wheels from the get go and save the headache. It’s just 3 12mm bolts on each cam and a retaining clip to get them off.

overall pretty straight forward and the cam phaser issue is all I ran into.
if anyone in the salt lake area needs the swap done reach out to this account and I can give you my info, you would be around 1500-2000 in labor+ an engine to do this swap at my shop.

I'm going to be putting a 2016 FB20 into a 2014. Do you typically change the guides and tensioners when you have the timing chain cover off? I've replaced guides and tensioners on a 2014 Impreza in the past (because they were noisy). I'm just wondering what you normally see out of the guides and tensioners. Should I order them and change them out or would it be typical to keep running everything in the used motor? It has 120,000 miles on it.

Also, where is the best place to get all the o-rings for the timing chain cover? Is there like a kit sold somewhere? Last time I went to the dealer for them.

 

[Mad mark]

Hey Jawajunk i'm working on a 15 xv crosstrek 2.0i premium. I got a jdm motor replacement. Figure it's a 16 or newer since it doesn't have the oil level sensor hole it's cast but not functional. Is there a way to trick the ecu to make it think it is working and full? Typed this and more out and the adds on this site made my page reset and wiped my text out.

 

[Mad mark]

I’m in the planning stages of a 17 FB20 cvt being swapped into a 13 XV manual. I am very curious about the solution to this crank sensor issue as well. Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks

I had to swap the crank position sensor holder (looked for a bracket but have to use "holder") as the one from this jdm engine was a 2 wire @ a 90 on sensor not a 3 wire straight that came with my 15 xv crosstrek. Broke the one from my old motor removing it off the inside back of the bell housing

 

[Jawajunk]

Hi Mad mark,
First, 13 and newer USDM FB20 engines all had oil level sensors in the upper oil pan. This engine was actually first used sometime around 2010 in JDM applications. So I think it's more likely your JDM engine is older, not newer than your car.
That said, my assumption is that you've already installed the engine into the car when you noticed this difference.
If not, I would suggest you swap the upper oil pan from your old motor onto the JDM motor. These engines are notorious for oil leaks anywhere there is sealant used.....which is in A LOT of places on these engines.
To be more specific, Cam carriers, timing cover, upper and lower oil pans are all known to leak through the sealant on these motors anywhere from 30-60k miles.
When I do these swaps I always reseal all of the above mentioned components on the JDM motor before installing it in the car.

If you've already installed the motor and aren't wanting to take it back out to swap the pans the only real options I see would be to rig the sensor to stay in the full position, plug in the sensor, and zip tie it up to the block somewhere. This is a pretty hokey work around but it should work.

I personally have never attempted to trick the ECM for this issue.
However, looking at the wiring diagram for that sensor, it looks like the sensor is a normally open circuit which closes when the oil level is full. In theory, that would mean one could ground that sensor wire to the block which would trick the ECM into thinking the oil is full all the time.

Again, I personally have not tried that and if you have not already installed that engine into the car I would recommend just swapping the upper oil pan from your old motor.

Let me know.

 

[Mad mark]

Hi Mad mark,
First, 13 and newer USDM FB20 engines all had oil level sensors in the upper oil pan. This engine was actually first used sometime around 2010 in JDM applications. So I think it's more likely your JDM engine is older, not newer than your car.
That said, my assumption is that you've already installed the engine into the car when you noticed this difference.
If not, I would suggest you swap the upper oil pan from your old motor onto the JDM motor. These engines are notorious for oil leaks anywhere there is sealant used.....which is in A LOT of places on these engines.
To be more specific, Cam carriers, timing cover, upper and lower oil pans are all known to leak through the sealant on these motors anywhere from 30-60k miles.
When I do these swaps I always reseal all of the above mentioned components on the JDM motor before installing it in the car.

If you've already installed the motor and aren't wanting to take it back out to swap the pans the only real options I see would be to rig the sensor to stay in the full position, plug in the sensor, and zip tie it up to the block somewhere. This is a pretty hokey work around but it should work.

I personally have never attempted to trick the ECM for this issue.
However, looking at the wiring diagram for that sensor, it looks like the sensor is a normally open circuit which closes when the oil level is full. In theory, that would mean one could ground that sensor wire to the block which would trick the ECM into thinking the oil is full all the time.

Again, I personally have not tried that and if you have not already installed that engine into the car I would recommend just swapping the upper oil pan from your old motor.

Let me know.

I don't have the engine in the car yet. I thought I was about done. then reading more of this forum I realized I still need to swap cam position gears. So it does make the most sense to swap upper pans. I'm so appreciative of the knowledge some of you have and the willingness for us to pick your brains on what seems like silly questions after the fact. Thanks for your quick response really helps more than I can say.

 

[lukyduckie]

Hi all doing 2015 xv to 2012 impreza swap.

how do you delete the bottom engine port present on the 2015 xv 2.0 when moving over egr pipe from old engine?